There’s no question that t-shirts are a core item in just about every dresser, but there can still be plenty of variance in such a simple garment. In my mind, t-shirts fall into two general categories. The first is the “vintage tee” – hefty material, boxy fit, historically accurate details, and so forth. Brands like Velva Sheen, Lady White Co., and many others have made a name in this space. But there is another kind of t-shirt, one that I have been gravitating towards lately. This is the “modern tee” – cut slimmer, with lighter, finer fabrics that have a smooth touch rather than a distinct “beefiness.”
In short – I bought over $300 of t-shirts, wore them all for 6 months, and wrote 1500 words about them so that you don’t have to do any of those things.
I decided to check out four popular brands for tees, across a wide range of pricepoints. Here are some things they all have in common:
- Slim fit. No tubular construction here, as it’s not possible with cuts that taper toward the waist.
- Light- to medium-weight. No hefty fabrics that need to be broken in before they’re comfortable.
- Long-staple cotton. This comes in many forms and can hail from Peru (Pima), the USA (Supima), Egypt, and beyond. The main point is that the longer cotton fibers create a stronger thread and a silkier hand.
- Size small. I stuck with my normal size on all of these. For the record, I’m 5’9″ and weigh around 155 lbs. I probably could have done fine with a medium as well, but decided to stick with the slim fit that these were designed for.
- No pockets or extra doodads. These are all more “minimalist” and have generally more stripped-down styling than their vintage-y counterparts.
And here are some of the traits that I judged them on:
- Fabric feel, longevity, and translucence.
- Fit. Very subjective, but some fits are more approachable than others.
- Neckline construction and longevity.
- Value.
Here are the contenders, ordered from lowest to highest MSRP:
Uniqlo Supima tee
- Price: $14.90
- Weight: medium
- Fabric: Supima cotton
- Made in China
Although it’s not $9.90 anymore, the Uniqlo Supima tee still a gold standard when it comes to basic tees. I’d reckon that many of you have tried one of these at some point – this is the ultimate high-value product. Approachable fit, above-average materials, and very accessible price. It has a pretty standard ribbed collar – my preference is for a sewn-in, bound collar as I prefer the look and they tend to hold up better – but for the price, I think it works fine here. The fabric is nice and a medium weight that is plenty opaque.
With that said, the low price is more apparent in other areas. I have found that Uniqlo tees don’t last as well as others and get ‘dingy’ and a bit ratty-looking quicker (and I know others that have had this experience as well). It’s also not really a true white – more of an eggshell – a fact that may contribute to its tendency to turn yellow (as you can see on the collar above). Even with a shorter lifespan, though, it’s hard to deny the value it presents. Easy to find and available in many colors, it’s a no-brainer if you’re looking to keep costs low.
Buck Mason pima tee
- Price: $35
- Weight: light
- Fabric: Pima cotton
- Made in USA
I will start with the caveat that this is probably not Buck Mason’s “core” tee – from what I can tell, the “slub tee” is their most popular. But I wanted to go apples to apples here, and went with their Pima tee so that I would be comparing their long-staple cotton option. Both the slub and the pima tees are priced at $35.
With all that said, I was not impressed – a surprise, given that the brand has built itself around its t-shirt collection. The fabric was very lightweight and had a slightly bluish tint out of the box (perhaps to counteract any tendency to turn yellow? Not sure). It didn’t wear too well after a couple washes, quickly developed a “bacon collar,” and was generally the most wrinkle-prone of all the ones I tried. The fit is reasonable – a pretty approachable slim fit that worked fine for me (aside from the rather narrow shoulders). Perhaps if I tried the slub I would like it more, but after trying the Pima option it’s unlikely I’ll go back.
I will say that it did reasonably well as an undershirt given its lightweight and slim nature, but it’s not something I would wear on its own. The fact that it’s made in the US is great, but as a whole I preferred the Uniqlo tee at under half the price.
Asket “the T-Shirt”
- Price: $45
- Weight: Medium
- Fabric Egyptian ELS cotton
- Made in Portugal
The first thing I noticed about the Asket shirt was the fabric – it hits all the right points. Impressively smooth, but not delicate. Has some heft, but not heavy. It’s very much a Goldilocks-type fabric that I was immediately smitten with and has held up well through washing.
The fit is a pretty standard true-to-size slim, though if you are in-between sizes I would size up. I will note that Asket does have an extended range of sizes including short and long (which is pretty unheard of for t-shirts). While this didn’t make any difference to me, it could be a game-changer for those on the tail ends of the height spectrum.
Another detail I liked was the double-stitched bound collar, which looks very clean and has held up better than all the rest. The neckline was also a touch wider, which gives it an elevated look. At $45 plus shipping, it’s pretty expensive. But this absolutely feels like a premium product in a way that many other expensive t-shirts don’t. I would totally buy another one of these.
Sunspel Sea Island cotton tee
- Price: $195
- Weight: light
- Fabric: Sea Island ELS cotton
- Made in Portugal
Now here’s a really interesting one. If you’re selling t-shirts for $200, you’re selling to a very particular type of customer. Sunspel is generally regarded as a luxury brand, but while most of their pricing is merely “high end,” this product borders on “difficult to even comprehend.” $200 for a plain tee is pretty nuts, and it’s not even made in the UK like most of their products (their “classic cotton” tee, which clocks in at $90, is made in England).
There’s an obvious reason for this significant price hike, whether justified or not – Sea Island cotton. Generally regarded as the highest-quality and most expensive in the world, it’s a textile that few brands even touch. It’s rare, at the top of the “long staple cotton” pyramid, and commands quite a price.
And it’s true – the fabric on this is like silk. Both in smoothness and in lightness, it has a gossamer quality that can only really be described as…silky. But it feels delicate as well, and that feeling is reinforced by the care tag that says “Do NOT tumble dry.”
The fabric’s lightness and smoothness also make it quite drapey, and it is the most translucent of the four I examined here. The neckline is a bit broader than the others and the binding is quite narrow, giving it a distinct look that also separates it from more “pedestrian” options.
As for fit, this one is a bit different than the others. It’s quite slim, but also quite long. I personally prefer the more “normal” slims on the other tees to this one.
Is it luxurious? Definitely. But is it really that useful as a t-shirt? To me, not really. It makes for a great tee to sleep in, but I don’t really think that’s the point of a $200 t-shirt. But then again, I don’t really know what the point is, anyway.
Conclusion
Just about every men’s brand under the sun offers t-shirts, so this is a category that will never have a shortage of options. And although it’s something you can easily pick up in packs of six from Target, I think it’s worth getting something a little nicer. The “costs-per-wear” rationale doesn’t often hold up as well as us menswear guys like to admit, but I think it checks out here.
For most people looking for a “modern” tee made of nicer-than-average fabric, I would distill it down to two recommendations. For the price-conscious, go for the Uniqlo Supima tee. For those willing to splurge for something excellent, the Asket t-shirt approaches the platonic ideal of what I think a t-shirt can be. Both are great options for the price. Whichever direction you take, wear it often and grab a Tide pen for those inevitable tomato sauce spots.
