One of my favorite aspects of living in a large city like San Francisco has been carving out my little micro-city within it – finding the places that I return to time and again, and getting to know the people that work there. It has a way of making a large, dense city feel much smaller, and I’ve loved forming relationships with many of the talented people here. One thing that I’ve noticed is that there is a definite theme among all the professionals I rely on – not only are they all very good at what they do, but they all seem to have an “ignore the noise and do it the right way” attitude about them. I’ve decided to profile some of the folks that I have come to know and rely on during my time here. If you find yourself in SF and in need of these services, I encourage you to look them up. See the full series here.
The cocktail revolution of the past decade has had a massive effect on what it means to go out for a drink, and for the most part I see it as a positive change. It’s now easy to get a well-made beverage in just about any major city, and access to interesting spirits and new and old cocktails has gotten much better. It’s a bit like the menswear industry in this way – small companies that have been producing great stuff for decades have been rediscovered, and over-marketed, trendy products are being replaced with long-standing classics.
With this revolution has come some downsides, and to me the biggest is the “faux heritage,” or perhaps the “hipsterization” of bars. If you ever go out for cocktails in a big city, you probably know what I’m talking about – the bowties, the mustaches, the Edison lightbulbs, the bookshelves that reveal a hidden door, but only if you know the password. Increased quality and appreciation of cocktails is a great thing (and many of these fancy new spots make great drinks), but what if you aren’t looking for so much fuss and just want somewhere to have a good drink and unwind? That’s where the House of Shields comes in.
The House of Shields has been my go-to watering hole for the past seven years. Over that time it’s functioned as a post-work pitstop, a weekend launchpad, a meeting place for first dates and old friends, and much more. It is the Room of Requirement for my social activities, always presenting itself as a reliable stop for whatever I’m in the mood for that evening.
What drew me to the House of Shields was the same thing that drew me to my barber and my trainer – they focus on doing what they do well and don’t try to pretend to be anything that they’re not. If you ask for a Jagerbomb, you’ll be politely told that they don’t stock any of those ingredients. If you’re looking for flare bartending or cutting-edge mixology, you’re probably better off somewhere else. However, if you’re looking for a well-made classic cocktail without the song and dance that often comes with it, you’re in the right place.
The House of Shields (or “HOS,” as it’s known in my group chats) has a rich history of its own, the kind that many new cocktail bars wish they had. They have been continually operating since 1908, making them one of the oldest bars in the San Francisco. In fact, during Prohibition the bar turned into a soda fountain, while the drinking moved downstairs into a covert speakeasy (there was even a tunnel connecting the famous Palace Hotel across the street to this literal and figurative underground watering hole). There are even rumors that President Harding – known for scandals, mistresses, and a fondness for booze – actually died in this underground bar surrounded by hookers, and not in the Palace Hotel as was widely reported. I have no idea if this is true, but my point is that the HOS doesn’t have to feign authenticity because it simply has it.
Don’t get me wrong, I do enjoy exploring the many bars that the city has to offer – from fancy to dive-y – but there is something to be said for stopping by the same places often and becoming a regular. When I moved to San Francisco with eyes full of wonder and a heart full of youthful innocence, I wanted to find a bar that I could get comfortable with and get to know well – the type of place where, if my life was a sitcom, half of the episodes would take place. When I first started going to the HOS I met Ethan on the other side of the bar, and that pretty much sealed the deal.
Ethan has been my go-to bartender in the city ever since, and has always provided me with excellent drinks, suggestions for new things to try, and enough banter to make a busy bar feel much smaller than it is. He’s also been an effective wingman and ice-breaker, providing social lubricant in the forms of great cocktails and conversation starters. Most importantly, he finds a way to connect with the folks on the other side of the bar, even when it’s a busy day. I’ve found that a substantial part of the fun that comes with sitting at a bar is lost when it feels like a transaction – too many SF bars are in a hurry to serve you, get paid, and get a new customer in your seat. Ethan and the HOS staff make you feel like you’re here to relax, not like you’re waiting in line to buy groceries.
Aside from his encyclopedic knowledge of cocktails and spirits, Ethan also is great at steering cocktail connoisseurs towards new things to try and helping expand the palate of those still shaking their college drinking habits. You won’t find Ethan making any drinks with blue curaçao or Red Bull, but he will gently nudge novice drinkers towards cocktails that will help them gain appreciation for more elevated drinks. Likewise, if you have a few go-to classics that you always turn to, Ethan can help you try similar drinks that you might not otherwise be familiar with. No matter who is behind the bar, though, you will surely be in good hands.
Thanks to Ethan and all of the HOS staff for being a dependable, friendly, and knowledgable bunch. If you ever find yourself wandering the downtown streets of SF and in need of a pick-me-up, I encourage you to stop by. The House of Shields has become my little oasis in this concrete wasteland, and it’s always a pleasure to stop by a place where everybody knows your name.
