About one year ago I tried a little experiment – I started wearing cuff bracelets instead of a watch. I had always been interested in men’s jewelry, but only from a distance. Perhaps it’s because there are very few “rules” to follow, and also lots of societal connotations to be aware of – it felt risky and complicated, so I didn’t do it. Like with cologne, I just felt that the risk to reward ratio wasn’t worth it.
But after a year of experimenting I’ve found wearing a cuff bracelet to be quite satisfying, in a way that I didn’t expect. It feels just a little bit cool without being too showy, and I can’t help but smile when I glance at my wrist (unless I was hoping to check the time, in which case I’m mildly annoyed). Not only that, but I get more compliments on them than I ever did on any watch. So while I’m a relative newcomer to the world of men’s jewelry, here are some tips on cuff bracelets that I’ve picked up along the way.
Styles
There are many styles of bracelet – beaded, leather, chains, etc – but I find that cuffs are a nice middle ground of feeling like a “real” piece of jewelry while also not being too loud (though the styles can get plenty bold if you want them to be). Broadly speaking, they fall into two main styles – the more vintage-styled pieces and the more modern minimalist ones. Both camps have a wide array of styles ranging from subtle to showy, so it really comes down to your style and what you like. The fact that there aren’t many rules to follow is what kept me away from trying jewelry, but I’ve learned that it’s a large part of what makes jewelry so fun. Explore what’s out there, focus on what you like, and don’t worry too much about the rest.
Materials
Cuffs can come in any number of metals, and this will significantly affect the price and how it ages. Materials like stainless steel and brass will be relatively affordable, while precious metals like sterling silver and gold will of course be more. I’ve found that sterling silver is my go-to – not as expensive or soft as gold, but more “legit” than something like brass. It’s also very commonly found in good vintage and modern jewelry so there should be plenty of options on the market.
Sizing
One thing to be aware of with cuffs is sizing – these are not one size fits all. Due to the inflexible nature of the cuff, getting a good fit will take some planning. Measure your own wrist first, and compare that to the circumference listed. Make sure to note whether the given measurements are for the full circumference or just the cuff (with the gap excluded). I like about 1/4 – 1/2″ inch of space on the full circumference – so with my rather small 6.5 inch wrist, my cuffs are in the 6.75 – 7″ range. Any more than that and I find that they feel a bit too jangly. Trying on in person is highly recommended, but we’re all here on the internet right now so I know how it goes. Just keep these points in mind while browsing.
Where to Shop for Cuff Bracelets
Go vintage. This is great but also fairly unhelpful advice. There’s a whole world of awesome vintage jewelry out there, but because I can’t give a link to one specific item it will require a bit more hunting on your end. Etsy and Ebay will have some good options online if you don’t mind digging around. If you’re looking for something special (or maybe just want to know a bit more about what you’re buying), there are many small vintage retailers and galleries that specialize in this sort of thing. If you’re looking for Native American jewelry, Shiprock in Santa Fe has one of the best collections I’ve ever seen. Their stuff can get pricey but it’s the best of the best. Worn Over Time and Imogene and Willie have smaller nice collections as well.
Go artisanal. In the same vein, jewelry is a great way to support small independent artists. Many of the same places that have vintage wares will feature small artisans as well – both Etsy and Shiprock have plenty of small makers, on opposite ends of the spectrum. Simple pieces like this would be an easy way to test out the style, while more complex designs like this will show a bit more craftsmanship. If you like vintage-inspired styles, check out Peyote Bird, Buffalo, and Lyle Secatero for some inspiration.
Check your favorite boutiques. Many shops that have great menswear selections also have solid jewelry as well. Self Edge and Mr. Porter have good spreads of vintage-inspired and modern jewelry, so there’s plenty to browse. Or just check whichever stores that you frequent for menswear – it’s likely that they will have a small collection that complements their wares.
So if you’re on the fence about jewelry like I was, I’d recommend giving testing out a cuff – even if it’s just a simple inexpensive piece. Don’t get caught up in rules or connotations and just see what catches your eye. You might just find something that is handsome, interesting, and a whole lot cheaper than that vintage Submariner that you’ve been eyeing.
Above: my 1950s Navajo cuff in a surprisingly modern style. One of two cuffs I regularly wear.
Below: My two cuffs along with a selection of Gus Walbolt’s wonderful vintage jewelry. 
