“Do you wear wool socks?” my doctor asked me skeptically. After briefly reflecting on the question I had to admit that I, a self-proclaimed expert in men’s attire, wore cheap cotton socks basically every day despite any variations in the weather. “Well, you need to start wearing them. They’ll keep you warmer and wick moisture better.” I already knew these properties of wool, of course, but hadn’t really applied them to my own feet. He began to list off some options for wool socks but I had already stopped listening, and was making a mental shopping list of how I was going to elevate my sock game – per my doctor’s orders.
It had begun a couple of weeks prior, when my toes had suddenly started getting painfully red and swollen. They had always been a bit sensitive to cool temperatures but things were definitely taking a turn for the worse and I started to find myself limping around due to the discomfort. It turns out that a couple of wet ski boot incidents as a kid had really done a number of the capillaries in my feet, and over time they’ve become subpar at keeping the blood moving effectively. So while I had become pretty comfortable with my $3-a-pair Uniqlo socks (a decision I will stand by), the time had come to elevate my hosiery.
Like my doctor said, it’s true that wool socks will provide more warmth than cotton with the same weight of fabric, and will keep your feet drier to boot (heh). And while it’s very rare for any sock to be 100% wool (or 100% of any natural fiber) due to the need for stretch, wool-based socks will generally carry a cost premium over a cotton-based one. Most wool socks will retail in the $20-$40 range; it does add up pretty quickly, but over time you can build a great collection with just a pair or two here and there. Plus, this is a great time to shop for wool socks – many retailers have them discounted with end of season sales, but the season for warm socks is just hitting its peak.
Although buying quality wool socks can feel like an unnecessarily expensive purchase, it’s difficult to convey just how much satisfaction they can bring. There’s nothing quite like putting on cozy wool socks on a crisp winter morning, and if you’ve never given yourself that opportunity I strongly suggest that you try it out. I would broadly split my socks into three main categories – dress, casual, and active. Here are my favorites within each category:
Dress Socks
My favorite style of dress sock is a light- to medium-gauge wool with deep ribs that run up the sides. I wear both over-the-calf (long) socks and the more common mid-calf, and both have their merits. Over-the-calf definitely feels more formal and there is reduced risk of your pasty calves peeking out from under your trousers, but they also may feel a bit strange to those new to the style and also can cause your pants to get hung up on your calves if you wear a slimmer leg. Either way, these are the type of socks that I wear when my pants have a crease in them – which usually means I’m wearing a suit or a sportcoat with dress trousers.
My go-to brand for wool dress socks is Marcoliani, a high-end Italian manufacturer (these and these are what I have, though different retailers will have different styles). Bresciani, another Italian maker, is very similar and quite popular these days. I find the two to be comparable and have a few pairs in gray and navy that I wear whenever I wear tailored clothing. Both are available at a wide variety of retailers in many styles, so you’ll probably need to poke around online to find exactly what you’re looking for. In addition to wool, I also have a pair of over-the-calf cashmere socks from Macroliani that are so decadent that they are almost embarrassing to wear. But I also guard them closely because I know that if my girlfriend ever finds them, I’ll never see them again.
Pantherella is another storied hosiery brand, though I have been less impressed with their offerings when compared to Marcoliani and Bresciani. Dapper Classics has a wide assortment of made in the USA options for great prices as well.
Casual Socks
This is what I tend to wear most often, and what I am slowly replacing my go-to Uniqlo socks with. There are a lot of different directions you can go here – from ragg socks to fair isle to tie-dye and beyond – so it just depends on how bold you want to be.
As is the case with so many esoteric things, the Japanese are at the front of the pack when it comes to sock aesthetics and manufacturing techniques. For “fun socks” that are more tasteful than they are loud, my favorite is CHUP. Their Faire Isle designs are the best out there, and every season offers new and handsome designs. I have ordered them direct from Japan via their website but there are also many US-based retailers – for example, Todd Snyder has them on sale now.
Other great Japanese brands are Anonymous Ism and RoToTo. Both have a solid breadth of styles – both traditional and modern – and are available at many retailers. Like with dress socks, you’ll probably have to poke around a few sites to see all that is available.
American brands are another great option here, as the lower transportation/import costs makes them a surprisingly good value. American Trench always has a tasteful and high-quality selection (their boot socks are great), and Wigwam is solid for old-school and affordable ragg socks.
Active Socks
When I am hiking, backpacking, or doing any sort of activity that will include a significant amount of walking, I generally wear wool-based socks for their extra loft and moisture-wicking capabilities. My go-to brand is Darn Tough – they’ve become well-known for their “made in Vermont” heritage and for their truly impressive lifetime guarantee. I have a few pairs – both thicker mid-calf options as well as “quarter socks” for summertime hiking. It’s worth noting, though, that in my experience Darn Tough socks tend to run small. If you’re unsure of sizing it’s best to size up.
Smartwool is another popular option for everyday socks that use merino wool. For me, the bulk of their catalog veers more into “fun sock” territory but they are an alternative to Darn Tough if you’re not finding what you’re looking for.
Conclusion
In my experience, quality socks are a somewhat uncomfortable thing to spend money on. They’re just expensive enough to make one uneasy while also being a pretty mundane product, which lends one to think “Really? I’m about to spend $100 on three pairs of socks?” But there is also great joy and comfort in wearing wool socks – they elevate a commonplace item and add an immediate dose of coziness every morning. Buying socks that cost more than a round of drinks for the boys can feel like an overly indulgent purchase, but the sensation of toasty toes on a brisk morning is priceless – and doctor-approved.
