It’s been an interesting couple of years for the suit. It seems that every few months an op-ed is written about how this really, truly is the end of the road for tailored clothing. But at the same time, suit stores are busier than ever and new companies are still showing up on the scene. Maybe it’s pent up demand (and all those delayed weddings), excitement for a “new normal,” “revenge shopping,” or something else entirely. Whatever the reason is, though, I don’t think that the suit is on its deathbed yet. And while I don’t wear full suits too often, there is one I use more than others – the Suitsupply Traveller.
If you’re not familiar with Suitsupply, they’re a Dutch clothing brand that burst onto the US menswear scene about ten years ago and have become a oft-recommended option for good suits at a good value. They have many hallmarks of high-end suits like name-brand Italian fabrics, half-canvassed construction, and trendy (sometimes too trendy) styling but are priced more competitively due to their Made-in-China construction and “direct to consumer” model. I have worn many pieces from the brand and did my first review of them in 2013.
Suitsupply’s “Traveller” collection is a a series of pieces that are meant to be hard-wearing, lightweight, and low-maintenance. The core of this collection is the suits, which for many years was just available in navy and gray but now seems to expand with some seasonal options. It’s important to note that these pieces often aren’t on the Suitsupply website, but they are a central offering in the brick-and-mortar stores. I have Traveller suits in both gray and navy, and together they make the core of my suit collection.
The Fabric
The main point of note for these suits is the fabric – they are made from a high-twist, open-weave wool that wears cool and has a springy texture that make them resistant to wrinkles. They also have a “dry” feel and significantly less sheen than a typical worsted suit, which makes them feel a bit less formal.
The porous, springy weave of this wool makes it hard-wearing, wrinkle-resistant, and very breathable. These are great qualities in general and are the main reasons why this suit is pitched as being a great travel companion. While you do give up a smidge of formality, you’re gaining a lot in performance. With the need for “conservative business attire” suits continuing to decrease, I think this is a great trade for the majority of men.
With both the navy and gray options, the color is a shade or two lighter than what you would typically see with a classic worsted wool suit. I like this as well, as it still feels like a “classic suit” but is a bit less somber.
The Construction
The Traveller suits have no shoulder padding and are fully unlined. They are half-canvassed, but the construction is lightweight. This, combined with the unique fabric, is what makes them particularly suited for travel, hot weather, and other occasions where wearing a more traditional suit might be challenging.
Like with the fabric, the trade for less padding and lining means sacrificing formality for versatility and performance. And again, I think this is a fair trade most of the time. Since many guys are less likely to wear a suit for a regular day at the office and more likely to be wearing one for a wedding, event, or for travel, this trade will be a net gain.
Another note is that this change makes the suit much easier to “break up.” Generally speaking, wearing a suit jacket (especially a classic navy or gray suit) with a different pair of pants is a really bad idea. It will look like a mullet – business up top, party down below. But because the construction and fabric are more casual and more akin to what you’d see with a blazer, this is one occasion where it can work in a pinch. For example, I have gone on a trip where I brought a navy and gray traveler, and wore the navy blazer with the gray pants. Not the ideal situation, but much better than having to pack a third suit.
The Fit
Suitsupply suits tend to be cut a bit slim in general (especially in the trousers), and I have found that the Traveller line fits a touch slimmer than the same cuts in their more traditional fabrics. I range from a 36R to a 38R, and found the 38R to fit well in the Travellers. If you are in between sizes and/or want to avoid an overly slim fit, I would recommend erring on the larger side. I think Suitsupply suits would be more flattering on a wide array of men if their cuts were less slim, but when sized appropriately they will still work most of the time. They also come in a huge range of sizes, which is great for serving a larger spread of the population.
For my two Travellers, I made minimal modifications – I had the pants taken in at the waist and hemmed for a very slight break, and added a smidge to the sleeve length (the sleeves look a bit short here, but in reality the shirt sleeves are a touch too long). I added a 2″ cuff and suspender buttons to the gray one to make it feel a bit more old-school, and kept the hemline clean for the navy one for a more streamlined, “cocktail attire” type look. Or, as once described on Styleforum, one is Times New Roman and one is Helvetica.
Conclusion
Beyond the 800 words I just wrote about why I enjoy these suits, there’s one fact that is perhaps the most telling of all – this is the suit that every Suitsupply sales associate has in their closet. In the past I have worked with Suitsupply both through their marketing department and also briefly on the floor of the San Francisco store – while I have no association with the brand currently, I know that this is the suit that me and every other guy would have as a workhorse. When you’re running up and down stairs and kneeling on the floor to measure hems and still need to look polished, this suit is an easy option. It won’t be the most exciting or the most conservative but it will always work. And for around $600, it’s a suit that will work for most guys most of the time, meaning it’s a great option if you want to keep your tailored clothing down to the necessities. I also think it’s a great option for a first suit, if that’s what you’re on the hunt for.
I do wish that the Suitsupply online and store experiences were more alike so that I could draw a more direct line between them (especially since we’re all so focused on online shopping these days), but as I mentioned earlier this is probably a product that you’ll have to visit a store to purchase. And while I think a less slim cut would be beneficial, visiting a store in person will allow you to figure out which size is best for you
While it’s hard to ignore that the role of a suit in today’s world is a bit murky, I think it’ still a good idea to have at least one basic suit to have at the ready. And optimizing for performance and versatility is a great way to go about it when you’re more likely to have a July wedding to attend than a board meeting. Suitsupply’s Traveller is a great option for filling that need, and it’s what I reach for whenever that need arises.
