If you’re anything like me, you have a crystal-clear memory of Patrick Bateman’s morning routine from the 2000 film American Psycho. On top of giving us some unforgettable discourse on business cards, Oliver Peoples glasses, and Huey Lewis & the News, it put the idea into a generation of young men’s minds that skincare was actually kind of…badass. That’s how I interpreted it, at least.
As for myself, I have always had a vested interested in skincare – not because this movie made it look cool, and not because I wanted to look young forever, but simply because I needed to. My skin has always been very pale and very dry, and it didn’t take long for me to learn that ignoring my skin’s needs led to painful consequences.
Figuring out which skincare products are a good fit for your needs is quite challenging and often frustrating, because the right answer is highly variable from person to person. On top of this, products can be expensive and it’s generally difficult to try them before purchasing. For these reasons – and just to make my life easier – I generally stay away from boutique, high-end skincare brands and focus on easy-to-find and affordable options. You will inevitably try some things you don’t like along the way, and it’s much easier to justify when the product was only $8. Skincare is incredibly personal, so the best way to figure out what works is to experiment a bit and go from there. To start, I look for brands and products that meet the following criteria:
- Fragrance-free
- Affordable and available
- Clear labeling of active ingredients
This article goes over the products that I use most. Over the years I have probably tried hundreds, but ultimately I think that a simple routine – especially one you can reasonably stick to – is best. I won’t get too deep into the chemistry and ingredients here as that’s beyond the scope of what I can confidently speak about, but hopefully this list helps keep your skin happy and healthy.
CeraVe
Cerave is a great balance of being available pretty much anywhere while also being a high-quality, dermatologist-recommended product. CeraVe was acquired by L’Oreal in 2017, and while some very-online people have exclaimed that this is the beginning of the end and all the products are bad now, I haven’t noticed any significant change. Here are the ones I use most often:
- PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion. This is a truly wonderful product – perhaps the closet that I can come to thinking of a product that I think will be beneficial to just about everyone. If you’re new to moisturizing, start here. CeraVe’s PM lotion is incredibly light but still feels hydrating. After using it my skin feels fresh and healthy. No heaviness or greasiness, just a nice hit of moisture. As the name implies, it’s designed to be a part of your pre-beditme routine (though you can use it whenever your skin needs a little moisture).
- Moisturizing Cream aka “The Tub”. This is the industrial-strength stuff. More akin to Vaseline and heavy on the skin, this is what I use for general body moisturizing. Great for rough hands and elbows, dry winter skin, or for anyone that is constantly parched like myself.
- Hydrating Cleanser. I don’t use cleansers often, but this one is gentle and non-foaming. While it’s particularly well-suited for dry skin, I’m confident that it would be effective for most people.
The Ordinary
One of the most hyped and celebrated skincare brands online, the Ordinary has been through a lot in recent years – from the acquisition by Estée Lauder to the controversial behavior and and untimely passing of their founder. But despite these changes, the Ordinary (from parent company Deciem) is great at offering two things – clear descriptions of active ingredients (and amount present), and great value for the money. Prices have gone up a bit, but they still remain very affordable. This is a great brand to check out if you’re looking to try a new type of product to test and want to keep things from getting expensive. I have tried many of their products over the years, and these are my regulars:
- 1% Retinol in Squalene. This is a great example of while I like the Ordinary . While many brands – both affordable and expensive – will have retinol products, too often there will be no clarity on how much of this powerful ingredient is included (usually, it’s trace amounts). The Ordinary has three clearly articulated strengths of retinol so that you can start slowly (it’s a strong ingredient and most skin needs time to adjust) Retinol is widely considered to be the most powerful anti-aging product you can get without a prescription. I use it every evening – a little goes a long way. Retinol makes you more sensitive to the sun, so make sure you’re pairing with daily sunscreen.
- Squalene Cleanser. I don’t routinely use cleansers because my skin is so dry, but this is my favorite for when I do. It’s gentle, effective, and surprisingly pleasant to use. It may feel odd if you’re used to a more traditional “foamy”
cleanser, but I recommend it if other cleansers leave your skin feeling tight and dry. - Various Oils. There are many plant-derived oils that are great for both hair and skin; pure, cold-pressed oils can be expensive, but the ones from the Ordinary are very reasonable. Argan oil is a classic for hair, and my overall favorite is rose hip seed oil – it feels luxurious and my skin loves it. All of their oils are priced very well, in my opinion.
- Honorable mentions: Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA (similar to the CeraVe PM moisturizer), Salicylic acid masque for occasional pampering, Glycolic acid for chemical exfoliating (I use on body rough spots more than on my face).
Neutrogena
Available in every drugstore I have ever been a patron of, Neutrogena is a brand that gives the impression “this is nice, but not so nice that it’s out of place in a Walgreen’s”. Over the years I have sampled many products from them and find them to be generally dependable and easy to find.
- Facial Moisturizer with SPF 35. (UPDATE: I now prefer La Roche Posay Toleriane with SPF – it’s nicer on the skin and cheaper per ounce, too) I use this every day in the morning, regardless of if I expect to be in the sun or not. Given my fair complexion and the fact that I use retinol, sunscreen is a must (and daily sunscreen is the best thing anyone can do to reduce signs of aging). And rather than increase the number of products I need, I use this moisturizer that has sunscreen added in. SPF 30 is generally a good minimum, though the increased protection above that is generally not that significant. There may well be better options out there, and while I’ll continue to experiment this is the one I keep coming back to.
- Sunscreen. Neutrogena has a ton of sunscreen options. And while there are many excellent high-end sunscreens out there, these are some good choices that can be found at any drugstore. I’m currently using the Dry Touch SPF 55 for days when my sun exposure will be higher (hiking, hanging in the park, etc). I’ve also heard good things about the hydro-boost SPF 50 and will probably try that next. When I am out in the elements I am a constant sunscreen re-applier and I don’t go on any outdoor adventure without it. Also, note that the efficacy of sunscreen wanes as it gets older, so I’m generally refreshing my stash yearly (not that it ever lasts that long, to be honest).
- Hydro-boost moisturizer. This is a more advanced (and slightly more expensive) product, best used in conjunction with another moisturizer (like the Cerave options above). The addition of hyaluronic acid makes this product particularly good at hydrating, even though it has a light texture. I use it when I feel like pampering myself a bit and want to add multiple layers of moisture to my face.
So there you have it. My routine is generally applying a moisturizer with SPF in the morning (and more SPF as needed), and retinol followed by a light moisturizer in the evening. When my face needs more than water to get clean, I use a light, non-foaming cleanser. For a bit of pampering I’ll add in a nice oil or maybe even a mask. Ultimately, though, what works for me may or may not be relevant to you – that’s part of the process. And I don’t live on the eleventh floor of the American Gardens Building on West 81st Street, so don’t take my opinion too seriously.
