It’s been about eight years since Meermin entered the menswear scene and was almost immediately hailed as the best value footwear out there. The market for high quality shoes has evolved since then and there are many more places to buy entry-level footwear, but Meermin is still a popular choice for many menswear noobs and pros alike.
Not only that, but their catalog continues to grow and improve. New styles and lasts are released regularly, and their made-to-order section continues to deliver more unique styles and materials for the connoisseurs among us. At their SF trunk show late last year I picked up a pair of their wholecut Chelsea boots, which I wrote about in 2018. Now that I’ve put them through their paces I figured it was high time to share my thoughts.
As I mentioned in my chelsea roundup article, I have a strong preference for wholecut Chelseas (where there is no vertical seam under the elastic panel). The difference is subtle but the change makes the construction process considerably more complex, so most brands don’t bother. Going forward, it seems that all of Meermin’s Chelseas will be produced in this fashion, making them the most affordable way to step into this style at a very fair $230.
The selection of materials varies throughout the year, but this particular model is made with Meermin’s polo suede. This shade is a bit “warmer” than the more common snuff suede (also available), and has stronger reddish undertones. This makes them a bit bolder (or “too harsh,” as Stephen Pulvirent penned in 2012), but I already have a closet full of shoes in muted browns so this pair is a nice opportunity to liven things up just a touch. The suede is looks and feels great – certainly better than most shoes anywhere near this price.
Because Meermin owns their own factory they’re always tweaking and refining their current lineup of shoes. One of the subtle improvements to this pair over the last iteration of Chelseas is the addition of their new “City flex sole.” This low-profile rubber sole is very soft and malleable (as the name suggests), so the boots are comfortable right out of the box and require no break-in. The most common complaint with Meermin’s shoes are that they are very stiff and require a significant break-in period – although I’ve never had this issue, the new City soles make this concern a non-starter. Currently the city sole is available on my polo suede pair and in a slick-looking black calfskin.
These boots are modeled on Meermin’s Hiro last, which has been the most popular at Meermin since the early days. I think it’s an ideal match for the Chelseas – shapely, but not too aggressive or angular. I went with my standard size of 7.5UK (8.5 US) and the fit is snug but not problematically so. I find the Hiro to be fairly low-volume, so if you are between sizes or have a wide foot I would consider sizing up a half size. I probably could have gotten away with an 8UK but the 7.5UK makes sure my boots don’t slip at all when walking.
When comparing these to the wholecut Chelseas from Sons of Henrey that I reviewed last year, the similarities are apparent. They have similar materials, last shapes, and construction overall. The Sons of Henrey Chelsea is a bit more angular and the finishing is a touch better, but they’re also more expensive. The quality of the suede is comparable and they’re both good options overall. But if you’re looking for something that can ship now and is as cheap as possible, Meermin is your best bet.
Like with all other Meermin shoes, these are Goodyear welted in China and then finished in Mallorca, Spain. And with the opening of their NYC store a couple years ago (worth visiting if you’re in that area), ordering shoes has gotten significantly easier. I still think that Meermin crushes the competition in the “under $250” price bracket, and the fact that they are continually innovating and improving their product line only confirms this. Much in menswear has changed since 2012, but Meermin is still the best budget shoe around.
