I’ve been writing about menswear for over ten years now, and it’s not often that a new brand attracts seemingly unanimous interest in the fashion space. We’ve seen lots of niche brands become darlings of certain groups with similar interests, but universal enthusiasm isn’t that common. Jacques Marie Mage seems to be one of these brands, though, as everyone from movie stars and pro athletes to prep enthusiasts and watch nerds is watching them with great interest.
And on the surface, the brand really does have everything: Japanese craftsmanship. French roots. Limited edition pieces. Old West inspiration. Sleaze. Exclusivity. And, perhaps most importantly, a lot of hype. The brand is incredibly exciting but also has a high barrier to entry between the high cost and limited supply. This article serves as a guide for how to navigate this complex and captivating brand – what to look for, where to find it, and how to navigate the ever-changing selection.
In order to properly “research” (aka justify) my eyewear purchases with JMM, I read 1000+ pages on Styleforum, visited multiple stockists, went through the entire JMM online archive, and consulted with many well-known “collectors” and aficionados like Dan, Peter, Derek, and Ross. My goal in writing this is to help you avoid this same taxing journey, so let’s get started.
About the Brand
First, a quick summary: launched in 2015 by French designer Jerome Mage, Jacques Marie Mage (JMM) is a Los-Angeles-based brand known for designing bold eyewear that is made in small batches with significant attention to detail. The brand draws inspiration from historic events and characters, citing influences from the Art Deco movement, the American West, Japanese craftsmanship, and French design.
An interesting aspect of the brand is how it has turned their customers into collectors. While other eyewear brands may interact with their customers whenever they need a new pair of frames, JMM has their community of enthusiasts salivating at the opportunity to jump on a new release in order to add to their collection (a collection that is probably no longer correlated to their immediate needs for eyewear). It’s very impressive, and I will admit that I get swept up in that excitement as well. Collecting things is fun, and this is the first time I’ve seen eyewear capture that appeal.
I was also amazed by how much buying a pair of JMM sunglasses felt like getting my first (and likely only) Rolex; the hunting. The researching. The rationalizing. The chasing of rare material and design combinations. It’s of no surprise that I see watch collectors use JMM as a way to turn eyewear into a collector’s hobby as well. And, as with watches, rare pieces with “box and papers” often trade between collectors for well above retail pricing.
So, in keeping with the American West theme, here is the good and the bad (and just a little of the ugly) of JMM:
The Good
Craftsmanship: it would be easy to layer on superfluous praise of excellent build quality and discuss how “regular frames feel like gas station sunglasses” after trying JMM. The quality of the frames is great, yes, but they don’t exist in another universe of quality compared to other top-tier brands. The quality of the materials and construction is very high and is a good reason to explore JMM, but on its own may not be worth all the effort.
Design Direction: This, combined with the above, is really what makes JMM special. JMM frames are distinct, bold, and have clear inspiration that guides the collection as a whole. I can’t think of another eyewear company that has such a high success rate for making stunning glasses.
Packaging and Presentation: From the Byredo-laced scent on the packaging to the satin-hinged box and the numbered card, the unboxing experience lets you know right away that this is a luxury product. Jerome clearly puts a significant amount of effort into the whole JMM experience – not just the product – so the product really does feel special from the moment it arrives. It’s no surprise that collectors keep all of the accessories and, like with luxury watches, they are an important component of the resale value.
The Bad
Pricing: These are a luxury item and are priced as such. Although the quality is indeed high, the retail priced is determined more by what people are willing to pay than the cost to produce. Retail prices have increased by a good ~50% in the past couple of years, meaning frames that were in the $500-600 range now easily go for $800+. I find it unlikely that this trend will change, and there is no chance that it will reverse. Once again, the brand has taken a cue from the watch world and are raising retails in lock step with increased demand. Sales are rare and usually accidental, so don’t expect to wait for Black Friday. The price is the price, so it’s up to you to decide if it’s worth it or not.
Exclusivity: The limited-edition nature of JMM eyewear means that most models come and go, and any “batch” of colors will not be restocked once it’s gone. As such, it’s generally not possible to peruse a full collection to decide on what suits you best. Every retailer will have a differing collection of pieces, and many options will not be available.
The Ugly
Not much, probably just these.
Where to Start
When shopping for eyewear, a reasonable approach would be to try on a few frames in a couple of colors and see what suits you best. This approach is effective but simply isn’t feasible due to JMM’s low and rapidly-changing inventory.
The selection of frames is constantly morphing and growing and certain models and colors can be notoriously elusive, so it is often difficult to figure out where to begin. While many pieces may come and go, here are some reasonably “safe” starting points (both from a stylistic and production perspective) that are usually available to some degree. Note that many of these can be sunglasses or eyeglasses frames, depending on what you’re looking for. I have also included links to images of these frames on some “regular folks” – there is no shortage of epic on-model photographs, but I think it helps to see them in a more natural environment.
- Molino: A rectangular 60’s-inspired frame that is versatile and looks good on many people. They’re also popular as optical frames (Edwin wears them well as transitions). Available in 52mm and 55mm sizes – start with the 52mm. (example 1,2)
- Fellini: Similar to the Molino, but with bolder angles and lines – more dramatic but still very wearable. Popular as sunglasses, and one of the best balances of wearability and presence. (example 1, 2)
- Enzo: Bolder yet than Molino or Fellini, but still with broad appeal. Taller lenses than the two above, so take this into consideration. Some collectors seem to focus solely on this model in every possible color. (example 1, 2)
- Jeff: Similar rectangular features as above, but with shallower lenses when compared to the Molino and Fellini. These are a collaboration with Jeff Goldblum, though he seems to wear bolder styles like the Enzo. The Jeff reminds me a bit of the “deal with it” sunglasses. (example 1, 2)
- Delean: JMM’s first release back in 2015, modeled after frames worn by Bob Dylan. Medium-sized angular frame, but with a cat-eye shape. (example 1, 2)
- Taos: A distinctly different style than the above, these 60’s-inspired frames were designed in collaboration Hopper Goods. (example 1, 2)
- Julien: A 50’s-inspired, Wellington-style (think Wayfarer) frame. Not as bold as others on this list but better suited to narrower faces (like mine). The Vendome is a newer, juiced-up version of this with similar proportions but more presence. (example 1, 2)
- Zepherin: Another fairly mild P3-style, with thinner acetate than others on this list. Available in 44mm and 47mm sizes. The 44mm will be better suited for narrow faces. (example 1, 2)
The list is much longer than this and always changing, but these are reasonable starting points. Many of the other acetate models could be described as a variation of something above – for example, the Ashcroft being comparable to the Jeff, the Quentin to the Enzo, and so forth. Once you have a feel for which styles appeal to you and fit you well, you can find others that are similar.
Another useful tool for getting familiar with JMM frames is understanding the frame measurements. These measurements don’t tell the whole story (and sometimes have errors) but they can give you a good starting point. If you spend as much time as I have browsing all of these frames, you will start to notice patterns and get a feel for the main shape families. Here is a comparison of the frames above, with measurements in mm. The lens width and height will tell you quite a bit about how the frames compare.
Acetate colors
Because of the “limited edition” nature of JMM eyewear, there tend to be batches of almost-the-same-but-not-quite colors that appear over time. While certainly not exhaustive, here are some of the most common neutral colors, roughly darkest to lightest. There are also a myriad of greens, blues, and others but any of these would be a great starting point.
- Black: Noir, Beluga, Titan
- Tortoise: Agar, Havana, Argyle, Camel, Vintage Tort
- Translucent browns: Hickory, Rootbeer, Whiskey, Ocre, Taupe, Seed, Sand, Beige
Note that lens colors, accent colors, hardware, and so forth can change between batches and frame styles – for example, “Noir 1” vs. “Noir 7” for a particular frame will not be identical.
Finding Frames
Tracking down a specific pair of JMM glasses can be a challenge, as mentioned. Here is an overview of where to look to begin your search for the perfect pair.
- Optician Stockists: if you are lucky enough to live near a good JMM retailer, this is probably your best bet. Though no stockist will have everything, the best ones get shipments every 1-2 weeks. If you happen to be in the Bay Area, Wink Optics (ask for Jenny) and OPT Optometry (ask for Todd, by appt. only) are both excellent. And since they are licensed optometrists you generally don’t have to pay sales tax on optical frames. In NYC, I have heard great things about Anthony Aiden. In Philly, Eyesite is often recommended, as is Black Optical in Tulsa. Lastly, JMM has two stores in LA and also has a stockist map on their website.
- JMM webstore: Only sunglasses can be purchased here, with optical frames being reserved for optometrists. If you are searching for sunglasses this is a good place to start, though note that the return policy only lasts for 7 days and the returns themselves can be a bit complex as you have to first contact their support team.
- Online Retailers generally fall into two camps – fashion retailers and optometrists with an online presence.
- Fashion retailers will focus on sunglasses and typically have good fulfillment and return policies. Some popular choices are Mr. Porter, END, Bergdorf Goodman, SSENSE, and Dover Street Market.
- Optometry retailers will often have a solid selection of sun and optical frames. Some will waive sales tax on opticals and may accept vision insurance, HSA/FSA dollars and so forth. But returns are generally more complex and have less flexibility. Popular options are 1269, Good See Co, and Dan Deutsch.
- Third party sites: Not recommended, given that fakes are becoming more common (and getting pretty good). Be very careful if you look for JMM on secondhand or gray-market marketplaces. Every now and then a good deal will pop up on Grailed or Ebay, but too many of the listings are either way above retail pricing or of dubious background. If you’re hard-pressed on going this route, I’d recommend the Styleforum buy/sell/trade discussion.
So there you have it – armed with this knowledge of designs, retailers, measurements, and colors, you can go forth and begin your own hunt. I wish you the best of luck on year search.
Conclusion
In my opinion, eyewear is one category that has changed dramatically in the past ten years. An incredible amount of new brands have entered the market, from “race to the bottom” DTC brands to small boutique makers. Jacques Marie Mage won’t be for everyone, but it’s hard to deny the appeal that they have, even in this crowded space. And while good eyewear is expensive, it can also be transformative. Like a good suit or a leather jacket, it is one of the quickest ways to feel like a cooler version of yourself – and Jacques Marie Mage does that very well.
