It’s On Sale: Saphir shine kit
Shoe products are of those necessities that are rarely on sale and can add up in cost quickly. Fortunately, Wingtip is having a flash sale today, and one of the products available is a starter shine kit from Saphir. It’s down to $33 from $110 and contains 5 polishes and two polishing cloths. Saphir polish is great stuff and this will make a wonderful backbone to any shoe care kit. Note that this package does not include Renovateur or any of the creme polishes (both of which I use more often than the high-gloss wax). However, I do believe that Wingtip carries them and you could use them to get over the $50 free shipping minimum.

It’s On Sale: Saphir shine kit

Shoe products are of those necessities that are rarely on sale and can add up in cost quickly. Fortunately, Wingtip is having a flash sale today, and one of the products available is a starter shine kit from Saphir. It’s down to $33 from $110 and contains 5 polishes and two polishing cloths. Saphir polish is great stuff and this will make a wonderful backbone to any shoe care kit. Note that this package does not include Renovateur or any of the creme polishes (both of which I use more often than the high-gloss wax). However, I do believe that Wingtip carries them and you could use them to get over the $50 free shipping minimum.

One Year Later: Allen Edmonds McAllister Wingtip
As I’ve mentioned before, men’s clothing enthusiasts often tout the importance of buying high-quality products, an ideal that I generally agree with. Of course, few of us have the funds to buy the best of the best of everything, so the process of finding and purchasing clothing and accessories becomes more of a decision of when to save and when to splurge. Even then, cost does not inherently imply quality, so determining where money is well spent can be difficult. This is a series of posts that show some of my purchases (both expensive and affordable) after a year or more of hard wear in order to display how they have held up over time. Only you can decide what is worth spending on and what isn’t, but the more information you have the better-informed your decision will be.
Although I always liked the idea of dressing well, I didn’t get into it seriously until graduate school. Being at that place in my life made me see that my days as a college student were numbered and that my future career was closing in (if I was lucky enough to get a job). For that reason I wanted to prepare ahead of time in order to get the most out of the small amount of money I had. As engineers - and Jesse Thorn  - often say, “Fast, Cheap, Good: Pick Two.” I started hunting for deals on basic and versatile items like khakis and shirts so that I wouldn’t be blindsided at my first job. I made some foolish purchases, but overall it was a lifesaver when I began working and already had a small amount of solid items to turn to.
I digress. These shoes were one of my first purchases in preparation for my career. I bought them in like-new condition off of ebay before secondhand shoes started to get more expensive. I was the only bidder - they were about sixty bucks. 
Now that my shoe collection has slowly expanded I don’t need to rely on them as heavily as I did a year or two ago, but they still get used around once per week. I worked them hard and cared for them gently, and they have stood up to everything well. Their color has become richer and more variegated over time and they have remained some of my most comfortable and best-fitting shoes. I could go on about the respectable quality and durability of Allen Edmonds shoes, but I wouldn’t be saying anything that hasn’t been said many times before. Instead, I’ll tell you an interesting story. 
After a few months of wearing these shoes I noticed that the rubber on one of the heels started to detach and flap around. This surprised me a bit since I had received the shoes in new condition and had been caring for them properly. Not sure if the issue was inconsequential or a harbinger of bad things, I stopped by the San Francisco Allen Edmonds store for an expert opinion. The store associate assured me that the issue was minor and that any competent cobbler could fix it. He then told me that they’d be happy to take care of it for me. This made me somewhat uncomfortable; I sheepishly explained that I had bought the shoes off of ebay and it felt dishonest to use any sort of store warranty. The man remained unphased and assured me that it was really no problem at all. A few days later they arrived in a box from Wisconsin, nicely repaired and polished. I was stunned. Good companies earn my business not only because of quality products but because of quality customer service. Allen Edmonds is one of those companies.
Would I pay full price ($345) for these shoes? I don’t think so. The “entry level shoe” market has gotten more crowded in the past couple of years and the choices are far more vast compared to what they once were. However, Allen Edmonds shoes are often on sale and when that is the case I think that they are still among the best options for quality shoes at a reasonable price. Not only that but the shoes are much more accessible than the many online-only storefronts so many people can find a place to try them in person, which makes all the difference. Combine that with the recrafting service, large variety of sizes, and the great customer service and it starts to look like a pretty good deal.
 Granted, those that are looking for a sleek English oxford will not find it at Allen Edmonds. Nonetheless, the American sensibility and “not too formal, not too casual” look that their classic models provide work well for most lifestyles and provide a great starting point for the man looking to understand what a quality shoe really looks like.
The rest of the “One Year Later” series can be found here.

One Year Later: Allen Edmonds McAllister Wingtip

As I’ve mentioned before, men’s clothing enthusiasts often tout the importance of buying high-quality products, an ideal that I generally agree with. Of course, few of us have the funds to buy the best of the best of everything, so the process of finding and purchasing clothing and accessories becomes more of a decision of when to save and when to splurge. Even then, cost does not inherently imply quality, so determining where money is well spent can be difficult. This is a series of posts that show some of my purchases (both expensive and affordable) after a year or more of hard wear in order to display how they have held up over time. Only you can decide what is worth spending on and what isn’t, but the more information you have the better-informed your decision will be.

Although I always liked the idea of dressing well, I didn’t get into it seriously until graduate school. Being at that place in my life made me see that my days as a college student were numbered and that my future career was closing in (if I was lucky enough to get a job). For that reason I wanted to prepare ahead of time in order to get the most out of the small amount of money I had. As engineers - and Jesse Thorn  - often say, “Fast, Cheap, Good: Pick Two.” I started hunting for deals on basic and versatile items like khakis and shirts so that I wouldn’t be blindsided at my first job. I made some foolish purchases, but overall it was a lifesaver when I began working and already had a small amount of solid items to turn to.

I digress. These shoes were one of my first purchases in preparation for my career. I bought them in like-new condition off of ebay before secondhand shoes started to get more expensive. I was the only bidder - they were about sixty bucks. 

Now that my shoe collection has slowly expanded I don’t need to rely on them as heavily as I did a year or two ago, but they still get used around once per week. I worked them hard and cared for them gently, and they have stood up to everything well. Their color has become richer and more variegated over time and they have remained some of my most comfortable and best-fitting shoes. I could go on about the respectable quality and durability of Allen Edmonds shoes, but I wouldn’t be saying anything that hasn’t been said many times before. Instead, I’ll tell you an interesting story. 

After a few months of wearing these shoes I noticed that the rubber on one of the heels started to detach and flap around. This surprised me a bit since I had received the shoes in new condition and had been caring for them properly. Not sure if the issue was inconsequential or a harbinger of bad things, I stopped by the San Francisco Allen Edmonds store for an expert opinion. The store associate assured me that the issue was minor and that any competent cobbler could fix it. He then told me that they’d be happy to take care of it for me. This made me somewhat uncomfortable; I sheepishly explained that I had bought the shoes off of ebay and it felt dishonest to use any sort of store warranty. The man remained unphased and assured me that it was really no problem at all. A few days later they arrived in a box from Wisconsin, nicely repaired and polished. I was stunned. Good companies earn my business not only because of quality products but because of quality customer service. Allen Edmonds is one of those companies.

Would I pay full price ($345) for these shoes? I don’t think so. The “entry level shoe” market has gotten more crowded in the past couple of years and the choices are far more vast compared to what they once were. However, Allen Edmonds shoes are often on sale and when that is the case I think that they are still among the best options for quality shoes at a reasonable price. Not only that but the shoes are much more accessible than the many online-only storefronts so many people can find a place to try them in person, which makes all the difference. Combine that with the recrafting service, large variety of sizes, and the great customer service and it starts to look like a pretty good deal.

 Granted, those that are looking for a sleek English oxford will not find it at Allen Edmonds. Nonetheless, the American sensibility and “not too formal, not too casual” look that their classic models provide work well for most lifestyles and provide a great starting point for the man looking to understand what a quality shoe really looks like.

The rest of the “One Year Later” series can be found here.

Last week: serious shoes for serious business.

Vintage Ferragamos - 30 years old and still going strong.

Last week: serious shoes for serious business.

Vintage Ferragamos - 30 years old and still going strong.

Made in the suede.
Suede captoes by Alfred Sargent for Sid Mashburn - easily one of my favorite eBay finds.

Made in the suede.

Suede captoes by Alfred Sargent for Sid Mashburn - easily one of my favorite eBay finds.

Although I do agree that matching the color of one’s leather accessories is a reasonable “rule,” I approach it quite casually and never work too hard on trying to pair things perfectly. I think that a little variation in belt, shoes, and so forth keeps everything from looking too over-thought as well as adding some depth and variation. With that said, though, it looks like my new Equus Leather belts will be an easy addition to my regular rotation. The rich color, patina, and stitching in the items above make them a natural combination.

Although I do agree that matching the color of one’s leather accessories is a reasonable “rule,” I approach it quite casually and never work too hard on trying to pair things perfectly. I think that a little variation in belt, shoes, and so forth keeps everything from looking too over-thought as well as adding some depth and variation. With that said, though, it looks like my new Equus Leather belts will be an easy addition to my regular rotation. The rich color, patina, and stitching in the items above make them a natural combination.

Khaki’s of Carmel Online Store is now Live!
Currently the stock is limited to footwear but my understanding is that it will be expanding quickly. Either way, it’s worth taking a look at the remarkable selection of fine shoes available.

Khaki’s of Carmel Online Store is now Live!

Currently the stock is limited to footwear but my understanding is that it will be expanding quickly. Either way, it’s worth taking a look at the remarkable selection of fine shoes available.

Restoring Old Shoes
As I’ve mentioned before, I recently inherited a few pairs of wonderful vintage shoes from my uncle and late grandfather. They are all high quality and have been taken care of well, but they’re 20-30 years old and are a bit rough around the edges. This pair is a nice burgundy plaintoe by Ferragamo that my uncle describes as his “dancing shoes.” Needless to say, they’ve seen some serious action. They still have some life in them but needed a bit of maintenance before they were going to look their best again. 
Things you’ll need:
an old, tired pair of high-quality shoes (no product can make cheap shoes look good)
a clean cotton cloth (old shirts work well)
Horsehair brush (or two)
Leather cleaner
Leather conditioner
creme polish with a pigment that will resemble (or complement) your shoe’s color
Sole edge dressing
Ready? Let’s get started.

1. Remove the laces and brush the shoes down with a horsehair brush. Dust often collects in the creases and seams and will make polishing much more difficult if not removed.
2. While the laces are out and the shoe trees are in, use a leather cleaner to remove the old wax. Wax often builds up on shoes over time and leather cleaner provides a way to create a clean, fresh surface on your shoes. This is especially true for old shoes. As you can see above, the old dried wax made the creases look much worse than they actually were. 

Unlike putting polish or conditioner on shoes, leather cleaner needs to be worked on in small areas rather than across the whole shoe. Concentrate on cleaning one area (the toe and vamp are usually the worst) before you move on to the next part of the shoe. Use the cotton cloth with a bit of water on it to rub the cleaner in. This step will take some serious elbow grease, and be warned that the cleaner might make your fingers tingle a bit. I use Lexol leather cleaner. You’ll probably see some color come off of the shoes (this is ok) and when you’re finished they will look a bit dull. Let the shoes rest for a while before you move to step 3. 
3. Apply a conditioner to the shoe. I use Saphir Renovateur and apply it with the cotton cloth. Make sure you get the tongue and all the welts (some even recommend conditioning the sole, but I haven’t experimented with this much).  Let the shoes sit for a while - some say to leave them overnight but I usually wait about a half hour. They should get a bit foggy and shouldn’t be greasy. Buff off the remaining conditioner with the cotton rag.

I highly recommend Renovateur for this step. It’s a very unique product that is an exceptional conditioner but also helps clean the leather and raises a surprisingly nice shine. The mink oil also smells wonderful. I noticed a distinct change when I switched from Allen Edmonds products to Saphir. 
4, Coat the shoes with a small amount of creme polish. Creme polish will not give the water resistance of wax polish, but it keeps the leather healthier and the pigment in it will help bring color back to the leather (wax polish will put color on top of the leather, but creme polish is better for getting pigment back into the leather). Many people use wax polish to achieve a high shine, but I’ve found that the uneven surface of old shoes makes bulling very difficult. I used a black creme polish from Saphir to deepen the patina in the seams and to add some depth of color to the shoe. Rub the polish in so there is no streaking and wait for it to cloud (10-20 minutes). Remember - less is more.

5. Buff off the polish with a horsehair brush, and then again with a cotton rag.
6. Apply a sole edge dressing to the…sole edges. The soles can get pretty chewed up on old shoes and this simple fix can make a big difference. Be careful to not get any color on the uppers. I use the Allen Edmonds travel size because the applicator is easier to use.

7. Let them dry and then lace them up. Hopefully the difference is noticeable.

Above: one shoe completed. Below: both shoes finished. Do they look brand new? Not at all. This process certainly won’t hide all the signs of wear, but I don’t really think that’s the point. These shoes look well loved. They’ve seen decades of action, but if I’m lucky I think they might see a few more.

Restoring Old Shoes

As I’ve mentioned before, I recently inherited a few pairs of wonderful vintage shoes from my uncle and late grandfather. They are all high quality and have been taken care of well, but they’re 20-30 years old and are a bit rough around the edges. This pair is a nice burgundy plaintoe by Ferragamo that my uncle describes as his “dancing shoes.” Needless to say, they’ve seen some serious action. They still have some life in them but needed a bit of maintenance before they were going to look their best again. 

Things you’ll need:

  • an old, tired pair of high-quality shoes (no product can make cheap shoes look good)
  • a clean cotton cloth (old shirts work well)
  • Horsehair brush (or two)
  • Leather cleaner
  • Leather conditioner
  • creme polish with a pigment that will resemble (or complement) your shoe’s color
  • Sole edge dressing

Ready? Let’s get started.

Read More

What do you do when a shoe is too big?
Well, in a perfect world you’d trade it in for one that fits well. For many of us, though, this isn’t always an option - maybe it was an ebay find, maybe your feet are two different sizes, or maybe it’s the only size left. It is important to buy shoes that fit well - uncomfortable shoes rarely get worn and cause problems when they do - but if a shoe is only a little bit off there might be a cheap and easy solution.
Try tongue pads. 
These Sid Mashburn balmorals (~$190 on ebay) were just a smidge too big for me - they measured the same length and width as many of my other oxfords, but for some reason they were just a bit more voluminous. I considered selling them but knew I would lose money if I did, and I liked them too much to bear that. I ended up spending $4 on tongue pads off ebay, and now they are snug and secure on my feet. If anything, I underestimated the power of tongue pads - I put them low on the tongue to obtain “maximum snugness” but I probably would have gotten an even better fit if I had put them towards the top.
This leads me to my next point - tongue pads have an intense adhesive on the back (at least the ones I’ve seen), so don’t expect to move them around much, remove them easily, or re-sell the shoes later on. Once they’re on they won’t be moving much. Nonetheless, if the difference between bad shoes and great shoes is a $4 piece of padding then I’d consider it money well spent.

What do you do when a shoe is too big?

Well, in a perfect world you’d trade it in for one that fits well. For many of us, though, this isn’t always an option - maybe it was an ebay find, maybe your feet are two different sizes, or maybe it’s the only size left. It is important to buy shoes that fit well - uncomfortable shoes rarely get worn and cause problems when they do - but if a shoe is only a little bit off there might be a cheap and easy solution.

Try tongue pads. 

These Sid Mashburn balmorals (~$190 on ebay) were just a smidge too big for me - they measured the same length and width as many of my other oxfords, but for some reason they were just a bit more voluminous. I considered selling them but knew I would lose money if I did, and I liked them too much to bear that. I ended up spending $4 on tongue pads off ebay, and now they are snug and secure on my feet. If anything, I underestimated the power of tongue pads - I put them low on the tongue to obtain “maximum snugness” but I probably would have gotten an even better fit if I had put them towards the top.

This leads me to my next point - tongue pads have an intense adhesive on the back (at least the ones I’ve seen), so don’t expect to move them around much, remove them easily, or re-sell the shoes later on. Once they’re on they won’t be moving much. Nonetheless, if the difference between bad shoes and great shoes is a $4 piece of padding then I’d consider it money well spent.

Business Casual Basics, Part III: Shoes

Previously: Part I, Part II. This is the third installment for my fellow white collar ballers.

If you’ve spent any time learning about men’s clothing (be it from family, friends, or the internet) you’ve probably heard a disproportional amount of talk about shoes. Shoes are a huge part of what dressing well is about (both in cost and importance), even though they take up a fairly small amount of space on your body. It can’t be stressed enough; shoes are often what separate the men from the boys, and business casual workplaces are notorious for bad shoe choices. A little bit of knowledge here will go a long way. Shoes are also the foundation of your outfit in stylistic and structural terms; if you buy well and take care of your purchases they will in turn keep you comfortable and stylish for decades.

1. Save up some money.

This one has the potential to get expensive. Accept the fact that high-quality shoes will be expensive if bought new, and can even be pricey when bought secondhand. Thrifting can be a good option here as well.

2. Learn the differences between “real shoes” and bad shoes.

High-quality shoes are expensive for many reasons, but the biggest two are material quality and construction. These qualities are much more important with shoes than they are in a shirt or pair of pants because shoes need to stand up to a tremendous amount of wear. Read Kiyoshi’s post and Put This On’s article to get a sense for what I’m talking about. If you buy a high-quality welted shoe that fits well and is well taken care of it will last for decades. Trust me.

Need some help finding out which brands can be trusted for high quality shoes and which can’t? I’ve included a short list at the bottom of this post, but my rule of thumb (toe?) is this: don’t buy shoes from any manufacturer that can’t tell you what last their shoes are made on. Any respectable shoe maker will have products on a range of last choices and will be able to tell you about them.

3. Understand the different styles and their applications.

Ready for some shoe terminology? This should be enough to get you started.

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WIWY
All these years and I still can’t tie my shoes.
Vintage Ferragamo brogues and Howard Yount flannels (1 3/4” cuff and a very slight break)

WIWY

All these years and I still can’t tie my shoes.

Vintage Ferragamo brogues and Howard Yount flannels (1 3/4” cuff and a very slight break)