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<rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" version="2.0"><channel><atom:link rel="hub" href="http://tumblr.superfeedr.com/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"/><description>Just a guy from a small town trying to dress well in San Francisco. 

Unless noted otherwise, all images and written content are my own - please credit accordingly.

Popular Posts: The Business Casual Basics SeriesThe Personal Style SeriesOut and About: Menswear  in the Bay AreaThe One Year Later SeriesProduct ReviewsMade-to-Measure Shirt GuidesWhat I Wore Today Archives Packing for TravelClothing Repair and Maintenance </description><title>From Squalor to Baller</title><generator>Tumblr (3.0; @fromsqualortoballer)</generator><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/</link><item><title>Gustin has all sorts of cool denim up on their site right now....</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/1ae5188249959843d29e231c824e3a8d/tumblr_mn7ukrconV1rs4tdvo2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/bd6e34f66bc5b0826bebffe65b9d62e1/tumblr_mn7ukrconV1rs4tdvo3_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/04a6e9777221920c38bdb73e80593d50/tumblr_mn7ukrconV1rs4tdvo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/be04e076311bfd96316e0ff5e719c902/tumblr_mn7ukrconV1rs4tdvo4_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="https://www.weargustin.com/store" target="_blank"&gt;Gustin&lt;/a&gt; has all sorts of cool denim up on their site right now. If you’re looking for some very unique high-end jeans at a great pricepoint then now might be a good time to stop by their website. If these styles are funded (and that shouldn’t be difficult) they’ll ship in July. &lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/51090019168</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/51090019168</guid><pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 13:08:00 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>selvage</category><category>denim</category><category>jeans</category><category>gustin</category></item><item><title>First, I love reading your stuff, it has provided several great tips for me. My question...I am ready to make the move from Clark's Desert Boots (which have served me well) to something of a higher quality and better fit. I am looking for brown leather and do quite a bit of walking (in the Midwest, so waterproof would be a plus), do you have any recommendations?</title><description>&lt;p&gt;I’m glad you’re enjoying the blog! I’ve had a few busy weeks at my real job but soon I’ll be back to posting at my usual rate. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Assuming we’re still talking about chukkas - I can only really offer advice on what I’ve tried, but my experiences with the Loake Pimlico are very positive. I wrote more about them &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/33774355958/completing-the-seven-shoe-wardrobe-loake-pimlico" target="_blank"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. They have a Dainite sole and come in brown suede or calf - I have the suede and used a suede waterproofer to make them fairly water resistant. I bought mine from Pediwear, which offered the best price at the time. They will also price match any other lower price and deduct a further 5%. The shoes also crop up on ebay from time to time. I sized down one full size from my US size. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;If you want my thoughts on other shoes, check out &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/42357260618/businesscasualshoes" target="_blank"&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/48044447228/hey-there-building-up-my-dressy-business-casual" target="_blank"&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  I’d say a chukka boot or blucher would serve you well, especially if you can afford getting them in shell cordovan. Be sure to hang on to those Clark’s, though - a beat up pair of those is a great shoe to have for everyday wear.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/51006110605</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/51006110605</guid><pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 12:15:56 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>A Closer Look at Beckett &amp; Robb
Part 1: Cloth and...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/be97a70b5b3e8036dc7da51114826d2e/tumblr_mmx8ilHm4e1rs4tdvo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/bcc2f2b6de257713e76c01b5ec34f044/tumblr_mmx8ilHm4e1rs4tdvo4_r2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/640421943ee9cd9089bcfe4b9c0ee519/tumblr_mmx8ilHm4e1rs4tdvo5_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/c53f490d8a69b6a7c53fd40459c5e6e9/tumblr_mmx8ilHm4e1rs4tdvo3_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/1b13d6bc2302b42a28152db1e5cba0d1/tumblr_mmx8ilHm4e1rs4tdvo6_r1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Closer Look at &lt;a href="http://www.beckettrobb.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Beckett &amp; Robb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Part 1: Cloth and Customization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;There’s been a decent amount of chatter about Beckett &amp; Robb, a made-to-measure clothing outfit from Salt Lake City that recently came to San Francisco (admittedly, a good deal of that chatter has come from my blog). I have seen their products in person a few times and have spoken about &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/44222556358/beckettrobb" target="_blank"&gt;how their company works&lt;/a&gt; but since I have never owned one of their products the information I’ve given has been limited. Fortunately, that is about to change - I decided to approach Beckett &amp; Robb recently and asked that they make a suit for me. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Although a large portion of the project financed by myself, in the interest of full disclosure I should make it clear that I am receiving a discount for sharing my experience. Nonetheless, I am putting my money where my mouth is and I will be honest about the whole process. I have been curious to learn more because the company’s business model seems to offer a good product.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, it took a while before I decided to give Beckett &amp; Robb a try. Although their company sounded promising on paper I was still skeptical after looking through their online product photos. The suits were often very “GQ” - cut agressively slim and short, with “flashy” fabrics and details. However, when I met Dustin (one of two people working in their SF store in Embarcadero Center) I immediately felt a sense of camaraderie in the way we dressed. His suits and sportcoats were made by Beckett &amp; Robb, of course, but he dresses with a very classic sensibility and I was happy to see that his product was able to capture that. This was crucial for me; I wanted to make sure that I shared the idea of how a suit should look with the person helping me design it. Our conversations about favorite blogs and looks we love (and hate) have only reaffirmed that we have similar views of what the end product should look like.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Beckett &amp; Robb carries wonderful fabrics from a wide variety of high-end mills. These include Loro Piana, Zenga, Reda, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Ariston, and more. They have dozens of fabric books that are truly delightful to flip through.  It’s worth noting that although two-piece suits start at around $700, the fabric selection at this pricepoint is limited. Most of their selection is above the $1000 mark. In fairness, some standard fabrics were out of stock when I went in and I believe that  they are looking to expand the selection below the $1k point. Nonetheless, I went in looking for a standard mid-grey worsted wool and found that it didn’t really exist in the standard fabrics - there were dark and light gray worsteds, mid-gray flannels,mid- gray worsteds with purple pinstripes, but some holes in basic categories like gray and navy (at the sub-1k pricepoint). I don’t think that this is a “bait and switch” tactic, just the reality of the stock they have combined with the fact that all the mills they use are well-known and expensive. Nonetheless, it’s worth pointing out. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I ended up picking out a lovely mid-gray 10.5 oz. fabric from VBC that I can’t accurately describe - it definitely isn’t a typical worsted wool; it carries some texture (but isn’t a flannel), and is very interesting for a solid fabric. It is pictured above. After the stress of agonizing over fabrics Dustin and I poured a drink and moved on to the details. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The choices for suiting details were plentiful. There were extensive options for liner fabric, pockets, lapel style and width, horn and corozo buttons, trouser style, and so forth. I went with very straightforward options - flap pockets, average notch lapels, waist side adjusters, and lightly structured shoulders. In my MTM experiences I find that starting simple is essential. You should look at the first made-to-measure (or bespoke, if you’re lucky) experience with a maker as the beginning of a potential relationship - start by dipping your toes in the water, for your sake and theirs. Your first order is a starting point. Refrain from succumbing to the siren call of “customization,” which can lead to a more expensive (and less wearable) garment, which is especially frustrating if it doesn’t turn out how you expect.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I also think that when beginning a MTM commission it’s important to go in knowing what you want (and making sure that it aligns with what that company produces). Dustin did a great job of providing good input when I needed it but had I gone in with no idea of what I wanted it would be easy to end up with an unfamiliar product. Go in with a strong sense of what you need and take advantage of their expertise where your own knowledge is limited. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Although the fitting and design generally take place in one meeting, I spent so long debating over fabrics that we had to call it a day and schedule the fitting for another time. My experience in that arena will be up soon.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50909881157</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50909881157</guid><pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 08:04:00 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>Beckett and Robb</category><category>suits</category><category>Made-to-Measure</category><category>fabric</category></item><item><title>Notice you have at least a couple suits from Thick as Thieves. I've been wavering over whether to do the online MTM thing. I'm ready to take the leap (and happen also to be trying to dress well, or at least not miserably and within my means, in the Bay Area). The photos you've posted of your PoW suit are fetching  and I wonder what suit format--house or traditional--you chose. Any other specifics you might share in ordering from Jason? My thanks--Dan</title><description>&lt;p&gt;I’ve been grappling with whether or not to post anything about my &lt;a href="http://www.thickasthievesla.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Thick as Thieves&lt;/a&gt; suits. Here’s the jist of it: I own two Thick as Thieves suits from a couple years ago (one was a gift, one was my own purchase). I have mixed feelings about them. I would hesitate to recommend them to most people.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Both of my suits needed extensive alterations after I got them. This isn’t unexpected at all but it can be frustrating if you’re really buying into the “made-to-measure = perfect” idea, which is most definitely not true (that goes for all MTM companies, not just this one). At the end of the day, though, I think suits are just too complicated to be a blind MTM item. Shirts? Sure. Suits, however, are just too involved to be relayed over emails and online forms. After alterations my suits were OK but they lacked a real “silhouette;” I spent hours perfecting all my measurements (like a true engineer, I took a series of measurements from different sources, and continued taking them until they all had a standard deviation of less than .25”) but when I actually wore my suit it seemed to be missing a cohesiveness that comes from looking at the product as a whole, not just examining a couple dozen measurements. Again, this is a risk for all blind MTM and not just Thick as Thieves.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I did like that I was able to work with Jason directly, giving the process a human element. However, he is a busy guy and I could tell that he was not as invested in my suit as I was. I was also disappointed with some of the fabric. For instance, my midnight navy mohair suit was a vast improvement on my first and overall I think it turned out pretty well. However, I began to notice that after not too long it began to look like it was covered in cat hair or something. Since I don’t own a cat I took a closer look and was saddened to see that the fibers were coming out of the fabric itself – it was dissolving before my eyes.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;If you are a hard size to fit (preferably small, since that would fit into Thick as Thieves’ aesthetic) and like the styling that the suits come with (cropped, narrow lapels, etc) then it could be a good option, especially if you get measured in person. If you’re just looking for a reasonably priced suit and are being lured by the promise of “perfection” and “customization” then I would pass. If I were going to buy a $450-500 suit tomorrow I would buy Suitsupply without hesitation. Hopefully that helps. I don’t like being negative about products but that was my experience. I don’t have anything against Jason or what he’s doing, but his product isn’t really for me.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50622548448</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50622548448</guid><pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 19:11:00 -0700</pubDate><category>thick as thieves</category><category>Made-to-Measure</category><category>Suits</category></item><item><title>From the weekend - laundry day.</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/8d842b6d5aaa746ab37d831e498130b5/tumblr_mmujd5Z7J71rs4tdvo2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the weekend - laundry day.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50579791432</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50579791432</guid><pubDate>Thu, 16 May 2013 08:14:09 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>shirts</category><category>laundry</category></item><item><title>In Person: Khaki’s of Carmel Oxford Shirt
During my last...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/0e958efdbde17b7062b3c5f39ecf2cb9/tumblr_mlmtf2VVEN1rs4tdvo2_r1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/0c2a56332e51964c34af9515df5fbbc7/tumblr_mlmtf2VVEN1rs4tdvo3_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/c1184836d76f958fdf55cac5987264d5/tumblr_mlmtf2VVEN1rs4tdvo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Person: Khaki’s of Carmel Oxford Shirt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;During my last visit to Carmel, &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/48201450517/jimockert" target="_blank"&gt;Jim Ocker&lt;/a&gt;t was kind enough to give me two items from his quickly expanding private label to test run and review. The first was this oxford cloth button down collar shirt from one of his shirting lines. It is from his more casual and youthful line, which includes these washed oxford cloth shirts in a rainbow of colors. Before trying it on I was slightly hesitant; I have become spoiled with made-to-measure shirts and rarely wear alpha sized (S/M/L) shirts anymore as they often don’t fit my thin build and long arms well. This shirt was marked as a size small but Jim assured me that it was a very wearable and comfortable fit. He was right. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The shirt is made of a light “spring-weight” oxford cloth from Japan that is surprisingly smooth and more visually interesting than most oxford cloths I’ve come across. This line of shirts is also garment washed so that the fabric is already exceptionally soft and is done shrinking. It is manufactured in New England by the well-known (and aptly named) New England Shirt Company. The garment is well constructed and has many of the standard signs of high quality - split yoke, single needle stitching, and luxurious fabric. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The collar is a very soft, lightly-lined, unfused button-down; at 2.75” it is slightly shorter than the classic Brooks Brothers collar. For this reason it will not have a “roll” that is so heavily pronounced. This is not a major concern for me but may be a dealbreaker for a select few. It looks great with a knit tie but I generally wear it without. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, though, the fit is the most important. Fortunately, this shirt fits much better than any other alpha-sized garment I own. Of course, that won’t be the case for everyone but it is certainly true for me. To me, the fit is reminiscent of GANT Rugger’s “Hugger” fit  - slim (but not skinny) through the sides, slightly shorter but still tuck-in-able body length, and trim sleeves. Unlike the Hugger fit, though, this shirt does not have an absurdly small yoke that creates tightness in the shoulders. It is exceptionally comfortable but still slim enough to be flattering. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Of course,&lt;span&gt; the shirt is not cheap, given the high-end fabric and American construction. However, the price point puts it right in the range of brands like GANT and gives a much higher level of &lt;/span&gt;construction&lt;span&gt; and material quality while still offering a youthful cut and a broken in look. Those that are looking for a more traditional office shirt may want to look at Khakis’ other shirting line, which offers high-quality neck-and-sleeve shirts in traditional fabrics and styles. However, if you’re already spending $100 or more on &lt;/span&gt;dress&lt;span&gt; shirts and are looking for a great casual option that is also high-quality, I can’t think of anything better than these. It fits me better than most of my MTM shirts and the fabric is wonderful. I’ve worn it every week for the past month and I’m considering getting another. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Hopefully Jim’s private line will join his &lt;a href="http://khakisofcarmel.com/shop/shoes.html" target="_blank"&gt;online store&lt;/a&gt; soon, but in the meantime these are available in several colors at the Khaki’s of Carmel store. If you’d really like to learn more but don’t live in the Bay Area then give Jim’s store a call and he can take care of you.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50422347884</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50422347884</guid><pubDate>Tue, 14 May 2013 08:01:29 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>Khaki's of Carmel</category><category>oxford shirt</category><category>in person</category><category>product review</category><category>shirts</category></item><item><title>Out And About: a chat with Gustin Denim
If you’ve been...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/e3f3b87ffc8de5d20c316af09ccc6e25/tumblr_mmihrn9FYX1rs4tdvo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/e4b6ea7d9ef187c279f453d59fd13e24/tumblr_mmihrn9FYX1rs4tdvo8_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/31988df68653651ff79995b9f9a20e3a/tumblr_mmihrn9FYX1rs4tdvo2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/cd4014e0309c2ab1ae4d1e9ee1e02d81/tumblr_mmihrn9FYX1rs4tdvo7_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/f3736ccc257c6038a5bf64b2de373f4b/tumblr_mmihrn9FYX1rs4tdvo5_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/d48cc0ddb4f900f267a392e0bce5c34d/tumblr_mmihrn9FYX1rs4tdvo3_r2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Out And About: a chat with &lt;a href="https://www.weargustin.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Gustin Denim&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;If you’ve been paying any attention to new developments in the men’s clothing industry then you’ve probably heard mention of Gustin - the kickstarter success story that shocked everyone when they introduced high-end denim at a pricepoint that seemed revolutionary (until they told us that it’s what we should’ve been paying all along).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;For those that are not familiar, Gustin is run by two Bay Area men (Josh and Stephen) that have been producing and selling their denim at boutiques across the country for the past few years. Each pair is made in San Francisco out of high-quality selvage denim from top notch mills. Earlier this year they abandoned the retail game and began crowd-sourcing their products at the wholesale price. What has resulted is a wonderful rainbow of high-quality selvage denim for the price of a pair of Levi’s. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I recently stopped by the Gustin headquarters to say hello and talk shop with Josh and Stephen. In this instance, I use the term “headquarters” loosely; in typical startup form they’ve set up shop in a friend’s living room and run their operation with a few laptops and iphone cameras. Nonetheless, the two keep a close eye on every pair of jeans leaving in the mail and are always looking for new and exciting fabrics for their limited-run jeans. Moreover, business seems to be going quite well - the team doubled in size this week when they brought on two more employees. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;During my visit I made a point to stop by their production facility, which is just a stone’s throw from their living room HQ. Watching the creation of a high-quality product is fascinating to me; I got to see the cutting and sewing process, which occurs - quite literally - right next to some of the biggest names in high-end denim. I also learned more about some of the subtle construction details that make Gustin’s denim top-notch. For instance, the belt loops are sewn on before (under) the waistband, which increases their durability and keeps them from pulling off. The pockets are also half-lined, which makes accessing the contents easier. I also got to feel many samples of past and upcoming runs - from super-soft to super-heavy to super-green, all carry something interesting along with them that makes them unique.  &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Although Gustin has introduced a heavily tapered fit for those that are in to it, their bread and butter continues to be their original straight fit, which is slim through the seat and thigh and is a constant width from the knee down. I left their HQ with a simple pair of Cone Mill 13.5 oz. in their straight fit and will talk more about it once I get the opportunity to break them in. However, it should be noted that they have been experimenting with other items that are just as impressively priced - in recent weeks there have been natural leather wallets for $20 and belts for $50, with more on the the way. For instance, while in the factory I saw some lovely Japanese selvage chambray cloth that might become a button-down shirt in the near future - stay tuned.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In the end, what’s most exciting to me is that Gustin is taking boutique denim and turning it back into what it used to be - a clothing of the people. At $81-$99, most of us can afford to treat this denim however we want, whether it’s with a myriad of rules, mysticism, and ritualistic non-washing or just a pair of jeans that works hard and gets thrown in the wash every week. No matter how you decide to treat them, I imagine that they will hold up well and look all the better for it. &lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50014905782</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/50014905782</guid><pubDate>Thu, 09 May 2013 08:01:00 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>gustin</category><category>denim</category><category>selvage</category><category>jeans</category><category>out and about</category></item><item><title>Dress like you know what you’re doing.
Some people say...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/d848291adf1afaec7cba1a7c078e3f50/tumblr_mm026obPly1rs4tdvo1_r1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dress like you know what you’re doing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Some people say “dress for the job you want, not for the job you have.” I wholeheartedly agree with this statement, but I think it can be expanded to activities outside of the office as well. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Over the past few months I’ve been strengthening my resume as a professional “party attender;” with a stretch of luck I’ve had the good fortune of filling empty seats at a couple of upscale parties and $500/plate fundraisers. One of my new favorite pastimes during these events is heading over to the lobby piano while in a nice professional outfit and sitting down as if I’ve been hired to play. I’m surprised at how long they let me go before realizing that I probably wasn’t supposed to play jazz standards at the black tie gala being held in the rotunda. Security usually figures it out somewhere between “Stella By Starlight” and the third chorus of “Don’t Wanna Miss a Thing.”&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;A nice suit, a few classic tunes, and a healthy dash of confidence can go a long way.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Above: The Steinway in the lobby of the Palace Hotel. &lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49936697877</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49936697877</guid><pubDate>Wed, 08 May 2013 08:18:22 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>confidence</category></item><item><title>It’s On Sale: Saphir shine kit
Shoe products are of those...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/ab441edd3f693a3b5c9630dd97882105/tumblr_mmgbz3YoG11rs4tdvo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://wingtip.com/tag/flashsale" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It’s On Sale: Saphir shine kit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Shoe products are of those necessities that are rarely on sale and can add up in cost quickly. Fortunately, Wingtip is having a &lt;a href="http://wingtip.com/tag/flashsale" target="_blank"&gt;flash sale today&lt;/a&gt;, and one of the products available is a starter shine kit from Saphir. It’s down to $33 from $110 and contains 5 polishes and two polishing cloths. Saphir polish is great stuff and this will make a wonderful backbone to any shoe care kit. Note that this package does not include Renovateur or any of the creme polishes (both of which I use more often than the high-gloss wax). However, I do believe that Wingtip carries them and you could use them to get over the $50 free shipping minimum.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49889903770</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49889903770</guid><pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 16:32:37 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>sale</category><category>saphir</category><category>shoes</category></item><item><title>Hi,  Can you give me some recommendations on suit brands? My budget is around 800. Many thanks!</title><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://us.suitsupply.com/suits/Suits,en_US,sc.html" target="_blank"&gt;Suitsupply&lt;/a&gt; has lots of great options in the $450-800 range. Their site has good sizing information but if you have any other questions about them I would direct them toward &lt;a href="http://blazerandtie.tumblr.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Timo&lt;/a&gt;, our resident Suitsupply expert. &lt;a href="http://www.brooksbrothers.com/mens/suits/0216,default,sc.html?prefn1=collection&amp;prefv1=1818" target="_blank"&gt;Brooks Brothers&lt;/a&gt; is a good option as well; right now they are having their friends and family sale (25% off), so many suits (like their 1818 line, which are made in the USA or Italy) are around that pricepoint as well. I’ve heard good things about the &lt;a href="http://thisfits.me/post/37618189930/what-i-wore-today-suit-ehaberdasher-benjamin" target="_blank"&gt;eHaberdasher Benjamin&lt;/a&gt; suit but don’t know too much about it. Depending on your size, you could probably find some good stuff on ebay but that requires patience and a good understanding of your own measurements, so it’s probably not the best move for a first suit. Depending on where you live, there might be a local made-to-measure program that does good work. In San Francisco there’s Spoon Tailor and Beckett and Robb; I don’t own either of their suits but I’ve seen them on others and they look great. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49864418637</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49864418637</guid><pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 10:27:45 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>A new player in the menswear game: RPMWEST
Maybe it’s just...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/932ffff2aa76b3508ed2f719d7f24e41/tumblr_mmd0daznbO1rs4tdvo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A new player in the menswear game: &lt;a href="http://www.rpmwest.com/kickstarter.html" target="_blank"&gt;RPMWEST&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Maybe it’s just me, but it seems like we’re in the middle of a very exciting time period for menswear. Small companies like Kent Wang, Sam Hober, Howard Yount and Vanda are creating quite a stir with wonderful products at great prices. Website-driven companies like Ratio, Proper Cloth, and Ledbury are changing the way we think about shirts, and now we’re seeing folks like Beckett and Robb and Proper Suit push the limits of what made-to-measure can be. Other companies like Warby Parker and Gustin also are helping bring high quality products down to very accessible levels.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;On that note, I recently had the pleasure of speaking to Manuel Rappard, founder of a company called &lt;a href="http://www.rpmwest.com/kickstarter.html" target="_blank"&gt;RPMWEST.&lt;/a&gt; Like many San Franciscans, Manuel worked in the tech field for a number of years; however, his interest in clothing eventually led him leave his job at Google and try to create something different. Of course, “different” is getting more and more difficult to achieve in the menswear market but I found his business model intriguing. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;RPMWEST is taking a concept we’ve seen before but applying it to something new: raw selvage denim. They’re using what could be referred to as the “Warby Parker” approach and sending each customer three different pairs of denim to try on, and offering free returns on all the pairs that don’t fit perfectly. This sounds very compelling to me as raw denim is something that is notoriously difficult to size correctly, especially when buying online. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The home try-on idea is interesting, but what really got my attention is that, similar to &lt;a href="https://www.weargustin.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Gustin&lt;/a&gt;, they are offering high-end raw selvage denim (in this case, 13 oz. red selvage denim from a well-known Japanese mill) at an attractive pricepoint of $95. The jeans are produced in the fair city of San Francisco. There are currently two fits that look to fit comfortably into the “slim-straight” and “tapered” categories. The styling looks to be minimal and subdued, which is generally considered as a major plus.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Their &lt;a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rpmwest/rpmwest-perfect-jeans-delivered" target="_blank"&gt;kickstarter campaign&lt;/a&gt; begins today and if the company reaches their goal of $50,000 then they will be able to implement their home try-on program. I&lt;span&gt; should make it clear that I am not yet a backer of their kickstarter and I have no firsthand experience with the product. Nonetheless, it does seem to be an attractive concept and I’m excited to see where it goes. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49857281138</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49857281138</guid><pubDate>Tue, 07 May 2013 08:04:00 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>denim</category><category>selvage</category><category>Warby Parker</category><category>RPMWEST</category></item><item><title>"jeans" in the search bar seriously yields nothing!? c'mon son, i want to hear what you have to say. thanks.</title><description>&lt;p&gt;It’s true - I haven’t devoted much time to denim here, even though I live in one of the denim centers of the US, if not the world. I don’t wear jeans as much as I used to and I haven’t had much to say about it yet. However, your question comes at a good time. You can expect several posts about denim over the next few days, starting with some interesting news tomorrow morning. Stay tuned.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49834513299</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49834513299</guid><pubDate>Mon, 06 May 2013 21:34:01 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>hembits:

Cable Car Clothiers, still handsome after 75 years.

I...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/d942074db82a283f9267b7d0903a06b4/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/179ba16c1d904315196b88fc449d5d6f/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/5e9b41dd84a879ce19bf7b282fa80688/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo4_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/b0b93c90fb9ec7ce3d281e2dfb886aca/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo7_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/4e50cb5758523eed3f2ee2af713e7bde/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo6_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/0c8039d53fac5d116e1eeceb4ec691cc/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo5_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/11ec80e0281e81514c3334c7216ae395/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo8_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/7299b047766063dd9583017beee5c32f/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo3_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/417300f653688e5a42bfb72c82529604/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo9_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;img src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/6e7fccab023addff9218acf7f1cd3f18/tumblr_mm7ob11nwz1qf8iigo10_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class="tumblr_blog" href="http://hembits.tumblr.com/post/49520007106/cable-car-clothiers-still-handsome-after-75" target="_blank"&gt;hembits&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;blockquote&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Cable Car Clothiers, still handsome after 75 years.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;/blockquote&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I had a wonderful time catching up with old friends and seeing some new faces at the Styleforum event last night, held at the iconic Cable Car Clothiers in San Francisco.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;It was a beautifully warm day in the City yesterday, and everyone was donning their finest cotton, linen, and seersucker clothes. After all, this is San Francisco - a few more weeks and it’ll probably be cool and wet again.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Jon (bottom picture) and company at Cable Car for hosting a wonderful event and opening up their store to a bunch of sweaty and hungry #menswear nerds. It’s a beautiful store and I highly recommend stopping by to peruse their selection of traditional men’s clothing and accessories (or get a trim and a shave from Nicky). &lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49521402082</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49521402082</guid><pubDate>Fri, 03 May 2013 10:09:00 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>cable car clothiers</category><category>meetup</category><category>out and about</category></item><item><title>Write something about your shoes collection! What do you sport these days? All seasons.</title><description>&lt;p&gt;Well, mostly I wear &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/42357260618/businesscasualshoes" target="_blank"&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. Every now and then I wear &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/tagged/Ferragamo" target="_blank"&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. Throw in a pair of Nylites and that’s about it. &lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49397026444</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49397026444</guid><pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 17:00:40 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>One of the coolest pages I have seen on tumblr. Really trying to step up my clothing game, and this page is quite awesome. Appreciate the posts and your image quality is quite superb.</title><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;That’s very kind of you  - thanks so much. I’ve been busy at work but I’ll do my best to keep the good stuff coming. I should have some nice posts coming out in the next couple of weeks so stay tuned!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49396822907</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49396822907</guid><pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 16:57:57 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>One Year Later: Allen Edmonds McAllister Wingtip
As I’ve...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/7eb6afae0a388cfbc72438aa0f793512/tumblr_mm3khotIkx1rs4tdvo2_r2_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One Year Later: &lt;a href="http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF6215_1_40000000001_-1" target="_blank"&gt;Allen Edmonds McAllister Wingtip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span&gt;As I’ve mentioned &lt;/span&gt;&lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/40768334120/those-of-us-that-put-significant-effort-into-our" target="_blank"&gt;before&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span&gt;, men’s clothing enthusiasts often tout the importance of buying high-quality products, an ideal that I generally agree with. Of course, few of us have the funds to buy the best of the best of everything, so the process of finding and purchasing clothing and accessories becomes more of a decision of when to save and when to splurge. Even then, cost does not inherently imply quality, so determining where money is well spent can be difficult. This is a series of posts that show some of my purchases (both expensive and affordable) after a year or more of hard wear in order to display how they have held up over time. Only you can decide what is worth spending on and what isn’t, but the more information you have the better-informed your decision will be.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;Although I always liked the idea of dressing well, I didn’t get into it seriously until graduate school. Being at that place in my life made me see that my days as a college student were numbered and that my future career was closing in (if I was lucky enough to get a job). For that reason I wanted to prepare ahead of time in order to get the most out of the small amount of money I had. As engineers - and &lt;/span&gt;&lt;a href="http://putthison.com/post/2108812491/q-and-answer-where-can-i-get-good-advice-on-mens" target="_blank"&gt;Jesse Thorn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span&gt;  - often say, “Fast, Cheap, Good: Pick Two.” I started hunting for deals on basic and versatile items like khakis and shirts so that I wouldn’t be blindsided at my first job. I made some foolish purchases, but overall it was a lifesaver when I began working and already had a small amount of solid items to turn to.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;I digress. These shoes were one of my first purchases in preparation for my career. I bought them in like-new condition off of ebay before secondhand shoes started to get more expensive. I was the only bidder - they were about sixty bucks. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;Now that my shoe collection has slowly expanded I don’t need to rely on them as heavily as I did a year or two ago, but they still get used around once per week. I worked them hard and cared for them gently, and they have stood up to everything well. Their color has become richer and more variegated over time and they have remained some of my most comfortable and best-fitting shoes. I could go on about the respectable quality and durability of Allen Edmonds shoes, but I wouldn’t be saying anything that hasn’t been said many times before. Instead, I’ll tell you an interesting story. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;After a few months of wearing these shoes I noticed that the rubber on one of the heels started to detach and flap around. This surprised me a bit since I had received the shoes in new condition and had been caring for them properly. Not sure if the issue was inconsequential or a harbinger of bad things, I stopped by the San Francisco Allen Edmonds store for an expert opinion. The store associate assured me that the issue was minor and that any competent cobbler could fix it. He then told me that they’d be happy to take care of it for me. This made me somewhat uncomfortable; I sheepishly explained that I had bought the shoes off of ebay and it felt dishonest to use any sort of store warranty. The man remained unphased and assured me that it was really no problem at all. A few days later they arrived in a box from Wisconsin, nicely repaired and polished. I was stunned. Good companies earn my business not only because of quality products but because of quality customer service. Allen Edmonds is one of those companies.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;Would I pay full price ($345) for these shoes? I don’t think so. T&lt;/span&gt;he “entry level shoe” market has gotten more crowded in the past couple of years and the choices are far more vast compared to what they once were. However, Allen Edmonds shoes are often on sale and when that is the case I think that they are still among the best options for quality shoes at a reasonable price. Not only that but the shoes are much more accessible than the many online-only storefronts so many people can find a place to try them in person, which makes all the difference. Combine that with the recrafting service, large variety of sizes, and the great customer service and it starts to look like a pretty good deal.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt; Granted, those that are looking for a sleek English oxford will not find it at Allen Edmonds. Nonetheless, the American sensibility and “not too formal, not too casual” look that their classic models provide work well for most lifestyles and provide a great starting point for the man looking to understand what a quality shoe really looks like.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The rest of the “One Year Later” series can be found &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/tagged/one-year-later" target="_blank"&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49361689914</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49361689914</guid><pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 08:03:35 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>allen edmonds</category><category>wingtips</category><category>shoes</category><category>one year later</category></item><item><title>for the dude asking about unstructured blazers I think brooks brothers has some on deep sale at least online I don't know about in store. also how do you like those peal and co tuxedo slippers? I have been thinking on taking the plunge on some to complete my black tie rig</title><description>&lt;p&gt;Good to know; thanks for the info. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;span&gt;Regarding the &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/47541489974/evening-accessories-from-the-weekend-card-case" target="_blank"&gt;slippers&lt;/a&gt;: If you’re in the market for velvet slippers (as much as anyone can be “in the market” for something so admittedly frivolous&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span&gt;) I think the BB ones are a good option. They can easily be found on sale for $140 or under and they are of good quality. I am almost certain that they are made by Church’s because they share the same unique last shape - instead of an almond-shaped toe box like most loafers, these have a distinctive “snub-nosed” shape. It’s not for everyone but I think that it adds to the casual nature of what these slippers represent. There are often used slippers on ebay but if you want to buy new I’d wait for at least 30% off and go for it. I ended up going true to size - it’s a snug fit but I don’t plan on wearing them with thick socks, and the half size up had some heel slippage. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49195461991</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49195461991</guid><pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:29:20 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>Last week: serious shoes for serious business.

Vintage...</title><description>&lt;img src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/6becf631c50c4c7198adb0363e3301b2/tumblr_mm01aflMyo1rs4tdvo1_r1_500.jpg"/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last week: serious shoes for serious business.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Vintage Ferragamos - &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/40768334120/those-of-us-that-put-significant-effort-into-our" target="_blank"&gt;30 years old&lt;/a&gt; and still going strong.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49180544697</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/49180544697</guid><pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2013 08:00:00 -0700</pubDate><category>menswear</category><category>shoes</category><category>Ferragamo</category><category>wingtips</category><category>WIWT</category></item><item><title>Any recommendations on where to pick up an unstructured summer blue blazer in San Francisco?   I like the one you put up in your last post.</title><description>&lt;p&gt;I suppose that mostly depends on how much you’re looking to spend. I’ve seen Boglioli at Barney’s and Wilkes Bashford, but those will be very pricey. The new Uniqlo store will probably have some some decent options for under $100 (with the quality you would expect for that, of course). J. Crew has some new releases at a price point between those, but I haven’t seen them in person. The wild card option would be to pop into Couture on Sutter St. - They are a very Italian-oriented clothier and I know they have a relationship with LBM 1911 and other brands that sport the “soft jacket” look. I have no idea what’s in the store right now, though. The one in my post is a Boglioli that I picked up on deep discount at farfetch.com.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Any other San Franciscians have a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/48712282876</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/48712282876</guid><pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 12:54:13 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title>Hey, what are your thoughts on the aspinal card case? Especially in terms of leather quality/ construction. Thinking about picking up one in tan.</title><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;span&gt;(in reference to &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/47541489974/evening-accessories-from-the-weekend-card-case" target="_blank"&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;My Aspinal case is used almost exclusively for formal occasions so I don’t use it nearly as often as my &lt;a href="http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/45757260771/matchingleathers" target="_blank"&gt;other one&lt;/a&gt;. Nonetheless, it  has treated me well so far. The red suede on the inside is a nice touch. There are lots of good options at that price point, though (&lt;a href="http://www.chestermox.com/" target="_blank"&gt;Chester Mox&lt;/a&gt; comes to mind), so I’d go with whatever style appeals to you.&lt;/p&gt;</description><link>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/48708455776</link><guid>http://fromsqualortoballer.com/post/48708455776</guid><pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 11:58:55 -0700</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
