From Squalor to Baller

Sep 18

[video]

Sep 15

Out & About: the Frank Clegg Leatherworks Workshop
A few months ago I was having a chat with my friend Jacob about how the idea of “American made” items is often over-romanticized. I told him that I certainly have a tendency to do this; when I hear the phrase “Made in the USA” I like to picture a wood-floored workshop filled with well-worn tools and with ceiling-high windows that fill the dusty air with afternoon sun. In that room, a skilled craftsman with graying hair and a smudged pair of glasses holds his work up to the light, his calloused fingers wiping away sawdust and checking for imperfections (and, of course, finding none). He then nods contentedly, eyes twinkling, and places the item in a box with my address on it before moving on to his next project. 
Of course, this image in my mind isn’t really what most American manufacturing looks like. Unless you’re at Frank Clegg’s workshop, in which case it’s exactly what it looks like. 
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In short, visiting the Frank Clegg workshop was like walking directly into that image I had in my head. In a room filled with the smell of leather and buckets of brass hardware everywhere, a very small group of men and women make some of the best leather goods on earth. Every surface is covered with an array of leather products in different stages of production; some stand alone as a made-to-order item or a sample, while others lie in a pile of identical products. All of them were designed and built in this Fall River workshop and bear the signs of good materials, good craftsmanship, and good taste.

Frank Clegg has been making leather goods since the early seventies, and has built up a considerable following in that time. Many of his core items remain virtually unchanged from their early designs and have remained popular across several generations. He told me the story of a lawyer who purchased one of his briefcases in the mid-seventies; 38 years later, the lawyer is about to retire, with that one briefcase taking him through his entire career. If that’s not an heirloom piece then I don’t know what is. 

Frank’s products have made it into the hands of many folks over the past 40 years, including one gentleman that happens to be the President of the United States (Frank proudly pointed out that Obama’s bag wasn’t a freebie; it was a full-priced purchase). There have been other celebrities and prominent figures that have been spotted with Frank’s wares, which is not wholly unsurprising given the quality and tastefulness of his products. Of course, his goods aren’t only for lawyers, politicians and celebrities; most of his customers are just people with an appreciation for well-designed and well-made things and are willing to treat these items as an investment.
The primary materials used in Frank Clegg products are belting harness leather and tumbled leather. These leathers are sourced from Italy and France and, although similar, differ slightly in feel and appearance. The belting leather is firmer and the tumbled softer, but both make incredibly beautiful leather goods. Frank is also known to experiment with more unique mediums like shrunken leather, which has a distinctive “wrinkled” texture. 

Frank also enjoys designing bags made with some stunning exotic skins - take the bag below, which is made from a single skin of a 21-foot wild alligator. “They don’t get this big in captivity, so we need to get wild skins for this,” he explains. He then hand-stains the hide for a rustic look that complements the wild nature of the animal. If you’re looking to buy “the Beast" it will set you back a cool $17,000, but you’ll probably be the coolest guy at the office with this at your desk.

One of the keys to Frank’s success in creating such wonderful pieces over the years (besides great materials and hard work) has been to keep his team small and local. He has never considered moving his small team to another location or outsourcing parts of the process to other areas, he explains. 
Advancements and improvements have been made over the decades,  including the addition of a large CNC machine used to cut leather hides (instead of metal dies). The effect is the same, but the former is much quicker and allows all that extra space to be filled with more leather goods instead of bulky dies. The CNC machine also reduces waste and allows the team to be more creative and experimental with their designs. 

In the past few years, Frank Clegg has collaborated with some exciting brands, his most recent being a partnership with Michael Bastian and with Dan Trepanier of TSBMen before that. I asked Frank if he had any exciting collaborations planned for the coming months; he grinned, and told me that he couldn’t give me details but that his next collab would be “pretty much the top of what I could hope for.” I guess I’ll just have to wait and see. 

In the meantime, Frank and his two sons are continually adding to their collection and working to improve every aspect of the business. The oldest son, Andrew, works full time in the factory and helps with design of new products (like this new camo bag), and the youngest son Ian takes care of product photography and works on the website and social media. 
I have been enamored with Frank’s products ever since I first discovered them, but this factory tour has convinced me that I will eventually have to buy one of his bags. It probably won’t be this year (or even next year) but it will happen. Fortunately for me, I don’t need to be in a rush to buy. Frank’s products have remained virtually unchanged in forty years, and if his team keeps making things the way they always have, I can’t imagine looking for leather goods anywhere else.

Frank explains the construction of his travel duffles

The inside of these bags is as beautiful as the outside. 

Small duffles in tan ready to be finished.

Suede makes an appearance.

Details of a briefcase handle (which can easily be replaced after years of wear)

The leather rainbow - black, chocolate, chestnut, cognac, tan.

Smaller items like these pencil cases and wallets remain popular as well.

Duffle bag details. 

More exotics - three panels of lizard skin.

Out & About: the Frank Clegg Leatherworks Workshop

A few months ago I was having a chat with my friend Jacob about how the idea of “American made” items is often over-romanticized. I told him that I certainly have a tendency to do this; when I hear the phrase “Made in the USA” I like to picture a wood-floored workshop filled with well-worn tools and with ceiling-high windows that fill the dusty air with afternoon sun. In that room, a skilled craftsman with graying hair and a smudged pair of glasses holds his work up to the light, his calloused fingers wiping away sawdust and checking for imperfections (and, of course, finding none). He then nods contentedly, eyes twinkling, and places the item in a box with my address on it before moving on to his next project. 

Of course, this image in my mind isn’t really what most American manufacturing looks like. Unless you’re at Frank Clegg’s workshop, in which case it’s exactly what it looks like. 

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Sep 11

Product Review: Chester Mox Wallet
I feel that there are many words in the menswear vernacular that are overused or used incorrectly; terms like “bespoke,” “tailored,” “hand-made” and others readily come to mind. There is one in particular that bugs me more than the others, and that’s the overuse of the word “artisanal.” In my mind, this word refers to a high-quality item created and sold by a skilled craftsman. As an example - Camillo of Red Cotton Denim, Diane and Gerald of Vanda Fine Clothing, and Charlie of Equus Leather are some of the people that I feel match that definition. These people aren’t salesmen or vendors; they’re incredibly skilled craftsmen and women spending most of their time making great products. 
Anyway, what I’m getting at here is that after trying out this wallet I can confidently say that Bellanie and Brandon of Chester Mox fit this definition well. They design and craft a wide array of small leather goods in Los Angeles and in doing so they have created the best value for wallets that I know of.
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Earlier this summer I was put in touch with the Chester Mox team and was offered one of their stock items for review, free of charge. Most of the times I am offered free products I find that they don’t fit in with what I write about here or are otherwise uninteresting; however, I had heard and seen many good things about Chester Mox over the past few years and was curious to try their products in person.
Wallets are a very personal and important accessory, if for no other reason than the fact that they are always with you. Because of this, I think it’s important to find something that fits your lifestyle and is built well enough to last for a long time. Although I am generally a thrifty person, I don’t have a problem putting down a bit of money for a good wallet because I know that the wears-per-dollar ratio will be off the chart. 

I picked the #53 compact bifold in saffron museum calf because the design seemed ideal to me - the same size as most cardholders, but with a bifold shape. The price for this design varies from $100-$180, depending on the material; however, some simpler card cases are priced as low as $45. 
When I received the wallet I was greeted with all the signs of a high-quality leather product - the rich smell, tactile sensations, and depth of color. Upon closer examination, I could also see the marks of careful and skilled handwork - the hand-painted and burnished edges, clean and straight stitching, and of course, a simple and aesthetically pleasing design. I should also mention that the museum calf leather is beautiful and adds a bit of visual interest without being too loud.

Speaking of stitching, it is worth noting that Chester Mox has now fully converted to exclusively using saddle stitching on their goods. Saddle stitching is an old-school way of hand-stitching leather goods, and it is used by some of the best leather brands in the world like Hermes. I won’t pretend that I can fully appreciate this big upgrade in construction quality, but the stitching looks wonderful and feels indestructible. Any wallet ordered from this point forward will be constructed with saddle stitching.
I have owned two wallets of reasonable quality over the years, one by Coach and one by Aspinal of London. I do enjoy both of those wallets and have put them to good use, but there is absolutely no denying that this Chester Mox one is on a level above them. The material and construction are both significantly better. Given the use of saddle stitching, the high quality of the leathers used, and the large amount of handwork I’m confident that this could stand up well next to some of the best wallets out there, and for a much better price. If this wallet was lost or stolen I would not hesitate to replace it at the price it’s currently offered.

I could go on about the quality of this wallet, but instead I’ll say this: whenever I pull it out of my jacket I can’t help but smile. The feeling of the leather in my hand and the rich color of the wallet are exciting every time I use it, and that helps take the sting out of buying a seven dollar Sierra Nevada at my neighborhood watering hole. The money may flow in and out of this wallet all too quickly, but I’m confident that it will be around for a while. 

Product Review: Chester Mox Wallet

I feel that there are many words in the menswear vernacular that are overused or used incorrectly; terms like “bespoke,” “tailored,” “hand-made” and others readily come to mind. There is one in particular that bugs me more than the others, and that’s the overuse of the word “artisanal.” In my mind, this word refers to a high-quality item created and sold by a skilled craftsman. As an example - Camillo of Red Cotton Denim, Diane and Gerald of Vanda Fine Clothing, and Charlie of Equus Leather are some of the people that I feel match that definition. These people aren’t salesmen or vendors; they’re incredibly skilled craftsmen and women spending most of their time making great products. 

Anyway, what I’m getting at here is that after trying out this wallet I can confidently say that Bellanie and Brandon of Chester Mox fit this definition well. They design and craft a wide array of small leather goods in Los Angeles and in doing so they have created the best value for wallets that I know of.

Read More

Sep 10

[video]

Sep 08

Back in California.
Featuring the California Tuxedo and Gus' new wheels.
Monterey, CA
Blazer - Beckett & Robb x Loro Piana | Trousers - J. Crew ”Bowery” | Cotton-linen shirt - Proper Cloth | Loafers - Brooks Brothers (ebay) | Pocket Square - Put This On | Shades - Warby Parker | Socks - Pantherella

Back in California.

Featuring the California Tuxedo and Gus' new wheels.

Monterey, CA

Blazer - Beckett & Robb x Loro Piana | Trousers - J. Crew ”Bowery” | Cotton-linen shirt - Proper Cloth | Loafers - Brooks Brothers (ebay) | Pocket Square - Put This On | Shades - Warby Parker | Socks - Pantherella

Sep 03

The Sailing Life. 
Featuring the seafaring Breton and an Omega Seamaster.
Long Island Sound, NY
Breton - Uniqlo | Chinos - J. Crew | Shades - Warby Parker | Sneakers - Superga | Watch - vintage Omega

The Sailing Life. 

Featuring the seafaring Breton and an Omega Seamaster.

Long Island Sound, NY

Breton - Uniqlo | Chinos - J. Crew | Shades - Warby Parker | Sneakers - Superga | Watch - vintage Omega

Sep 02

[video]

Aug 27

Those New England Summers.
Featuring the untucked, rumpled, and sockless look.
Portsmouth, NH
Chambray shirt - Proper Cloth | Loafers - Brooks Brothers (ebay) | Shades - Warby Parker | Chinos - Bonobos

Those New England Summers.

Featuring the untucked, rumpled, and sockless look.

Portsmouth, NH

Chambray shirt - Proper Cloth | Loafers - Brooks Brothers (ebay) | Shades - Warby Parker | Chinos - Bonobos

Aug 25

August in New York. 
The struggle is real - featuring a cotton-linen shirt, an unlined and open weave wool blazer, and a not-too-skinny fit.
SoHo, NYC. 
Blazer - Beckett & Robb x Loro Piana | Trousers - J. Crew ” Bowery” | Cotton-linen shirt - Proper Cloth | Loafers - Brooks Brothers (ebay) | Pocket Square - Kent Wang | Shades - Warby Parker | Socks - Pantherella

August in New York. 

The struggle is real - featuring a cotton-linen shirt, an unlined and open weave wool blazer, and a not-too-skinny fit.

SoHo, NYC. 

Blazer - Beckett & Robb x Loro Piana | Trousers - J. Crew ” Bowery” | Cotton-linen shirt - Proper Cloth | Loafers - Brooks Brothers (ebay)Pocket Square - Kent Wang | Shades - Warby Parker | Socks - Pantherella

Aug 24

Anonymous said: May I assume that you escaped the SF earthquake today? Will you return to an undamaged apartment? Safe travels.

Fear not; I am safe and so is my wardrobe! Thanks to all of the people that checked to make sure I was ok.  I’m back in San Francisco and posts should resume tomorrow. 

(oh, and if you live in California you should use this as an opportunity to get an earthquake kit.)