From Squalor to Baller

The newest addition to my collection of Equus belts - the “Scott” Oak Bark harness leather belt. It’s a rugged and handsome piece made to a unique set of criteria: withstand abuse from weather, use, and time, provide the strength to support tools, and look good while doing it. It has a rich mottled color similar to the Oak Brown belt I own, but in a much deeper hue that is difficult to photograph. The harness leather has a slightly more casual look and feel to it, possibly due to the high amounts of grease used in the tanning process (for added tensile strength) and the more rugged leather used. I’ve found that it’s an ideal belt for denim, as seen here. Charlie, the founder of Equus Leather, says he wears this belt almost every day and I can see why.

Bottom picture: Scott (left), Oak Brown (mid), and Australian Nut (right)

Thanks, Charlie!

A Closer Look at Beckett & Robb

Part II: Measurements and Fitting

Previously: Part I

After poring over fabric books, lapel styles, and horn buttons for a couple hours with Dustin I was ready to begin the most important part of the made-to-measure experience - the fitting. Picking fabric and style options is lots of fun (although my choices were very tame), but the most crucial part of the process is making sure that you are properly measured. 

Beckett & Robb’s measurement process consists of many body measurements as well as garment adjustments taken from some standard-sized suits in the store. The measurements are very thorough and account for a variety of parameters outside of what the standard online MTM companies offer. Things like shoulder slope, posture, sleeve pitch, button stance, and trouser rise (both front and back) are all very important to a well-fitting suit but are generally not captured in a “blind” MTM experience since they are difficult to determine with a measuring tape. Of course, I have yet to see how the final product incorporates these values but it was good to know that they were acknowledged and included. 

The suit samples (made of a Loro Piana grey worsted wool) were helpful in that they gave a general idea of what the final product might look like. My suit won’t look that similar to the sample I worked with (no skinny lapels, for instance), but it helped me see changes in real time and how they might affect the end product. For instance, button stance is a powerful factor in a suit’s look but it can be hard to visualize. The samples allowed me to see the effects of moving it up and down directly (I moved it down to a slightly more traditional level). 

One particular area that Dustin and I spent a lot of time poring over was my shoulders and deciding how to best address them. You see, although I have a slim build I have surprisingly broad shoulders with a heavy slope. The slope in particular causes problems and is difficult to address well. In the end we went with a lightly padded shoulder that hopefully will address my heavy slope in an attractive way. I know shoulders with any padding at all seem almost passé at the moment but it’s a classic silhouette (especially for a suit) and at the end of the day I relate more with the British tailoring traditions than with the Neopolitan style that is so popular nowadays. I am a descendant of Caledonia and the Emerald Isles, after all. Anyway, I’m curious to see how they turn out. 

All in all, Dustin was very capable and seemed to have a good handle on what he was doing. It should go without saying that the end result can only be as good as the person measuring it (which is why blind MTM suits can be so risky), so I was pleased that Dustin and I had similar taste and wanted the same things from the fitting. I was also able to rely on Dustin when my own knowledge was lacking - although I like to pretend to have a wealth of knowledge on things like this there are certainly topcis I don’t fully understand and Dustin was able to offer good advice when needed.

As could be expected from a perfectionist like myself, I find it easy to work myself into a tizzy about whether the suit will fit right or not. To me, though, that’s almost part of starting a clothing commission with a new company - the fear and excitement of waiting for a product being made solely for you. My suit should be arriving in the next week or two, so we’ll soon find out.

In Person: Gustin Denim

I’ve had the good fortune of hanging out with the Gustin crew a couple of times, and a few weeks ago they were kind enough to offer me a pair of their jeans for review. There’s been a good deal of hype around Gustin’s jeans (mainly because of the killer pricepoint and unique denim options) but since the great monetary value comes with a waiting period of a couple months that means relatively few people have actually experienced the product firsthand. I’ll try and lay out a detailed review for those that want more information before they’ll consider buying, but the short answer is that they’re a fantastic value.

The pair I left with is a 13.5 oz. Cone Mills raw selvage denim in their straight fit. The cut is slim through the seat and thighs and is a true straight leg form the knee down. The fit is comparable to my 3Sixteen SL100x but without the slight taper below the knee (7.7” measured opening on the 3Sixteens, about 8” on the Gustins). I’d say that in my limited experience it is reminiscent of the Levi’s 514 cut. Although I would probably prefer a slight taper below the knee (7.75” would be ideal, I think), I certainly don’t “need” it - the straight leg is a very classic style and gives a fairly “timeless” silhouette (although I admit that word is certainly overused). I will also get them hemmed after their first wash, and this will help reduce the bulk around the bottom as well. For what it’s worth, I have gotten several compliments on these jeans (most of which came from a very fashionable and “fabulous” neighborhood in San Francisco), and I’ve never been complimented on my denim before.

The rise on this pair is also comparable to my 3Sixteens - it is a bit higher than most denim on the market but I definitely like it where it is. For those that want a tapered, lower-rise jean, Gustin offers a very slim option as well. I might bite at something in between the two, but the slim fit measurements look a bit too extreme for me. 

For my pair, the denim itself is fairly “average,” as far as high-end selvage goes. This standard Cone Mills denim isn’t really that unique - it’s a mid-weight, true indigo, regular-feeling, red-line selvage. However,  this shouldn’t be taken as a dig against the product. Gustin offers jeans in more fabrics than I knew existed - heavy, light, green, black, organic, and any other sample they can get their hands on. If you don’t see anything you like then simply wait a week or two. For the record, I’ve heard especially good things about their Japanese denim, and if the fabric swatches I’ve felt are any indication then I have to agree.

Gustin denim has some slight detailing that make it unique - half-lined pockets (which is why there is a line across them), reinforced belt loops (sewn on before the waistband to increase strength), and impressively sturdy hardware (seriously - really nice stuff). The selvage belt loop and minimal pocket detailing might be too much for denim purists but I find that they are not detracting and the overall aesthetic is still subtle. As for the construction quality, I said it before but I’ll mention it again - these are literally (not figuratively) made alongside other brands that cost significantly more, right here in San Francisco. There is no reduction in material or construction quality. 

Now, the biggest difficulty when buying Gustin denim (besides the wait) is sizing. Since all of the denim is crowdsourced, the products are offered at a wonderful pricepoint because there is no need for holding inventory. However, the tradeoff is ease of returns (although Gustin is working hard to accommodate them), and for that reason sizing correctly is very important. As their website explains, Gustin jeans are made with a bit less vanity sizing than most brands, so some people may need to wear a bigger size than what they are accustomed to. On the other hand, many people suggest sizing down with raw denim to account for the stretching. Where does this leave us? For starters, I would not size down from your original size when buying Gustin jeans as this will result in a jean that is much tighter than you expect. I went true-to-size (31) with my pair, and they were very tight in the waist initially but have stretched out comfortably after a couple weeks of wear. Gustin’s chat board seems to come to a similar consensus. Of course, not all denim stretches the same amount and not everybody wants to deal with a super snug waistband, so again there is some uncertainty. I would suggest this: If you are a very constant waist size across the board and are used to buying raw denim tight and breaking them in, consider going true-to-size. If you are in-between sizes and/or don’t want to risk too-tight jeans, size up one. Don’t size down. Of course, that’s just my opinion - Gustin provides detailed measurements that you should definitely consult before making your decision.

All told, I think the Gustin team is putting out some wonderful jeans. If their cut looks like something that would work for you then I would wholeheartedly encourage you to try a pair. This is far and away the most inexpensive way to get the high-end denim experience. The only thing separating these jeans from the other big brands is about  $140. 

PS - keep an eye out for new products in the coming weeks. I’ve seen some very cool samples that will hopefully be making their way to the website soon.

Urban Exploration - the Presidio

I find it very convenient (and surprising) that one of my favorite spots in the city still remains relatively unknown and very empty. San Francisco is a crowded place and it can be challenging to find a location that is both beautiful and tranquil within the city limits.

The Presidio is a strange place - for over 200 years it was an active military base until control of the area was transferred to the National Park Service in 1994. The area remains a surreal mixture of quaint neighborhoods, military compounds, wooded hilltops and scenic city vistas. It still boggles my mind that such a quiet piece of outdoor solitude can exist within a loud and active city. The smell of eucalyptus groves mixed with the views of the San Francisco skyline is a juxtaposition that I can’t get enough of. 

OCBD - Gant Rugger | Jacket - Gant Rugger | Sweater - J. Crew | Belt - Equus Leather | Shades - Warby Parker | Sneakers - Tretorn Nylites | Messenger Bag - Ernest Alexander | Denim - Gustin (review coming soon)